Mt. Baker 10,781’

Introduction:

The climbing on Mt. Baker is varied from steep glacier ice climbs perfect for the advanced climber to low angle glacier walking perfect for an introduction to glaciated alpinism. This factor combined with large relief of the mountain (nearly 7,000 feet) and relative high elevation (10,781 feet/3,286 meters) makes Mt. Baker an alpinists play ground. First ascent was in 1868 by Edmund Coleman, John Tennant, Thomas Stratton and David Ogilvy. The North Ridge was first climbed in August 1948 by Fred Beckey, Ralph and Dick Widrig and is rated AD, AI2-3, 3700 feet.

Mount Baker also known as Koma Kulshan or simply Kulshan, is an active glaciated volcano in the Cascade Volcanic Arc and the North Cascades of Washington, USA. Mt. Baker has the second-most thermally active crater in the range after Mt. Saint Helens. About 31 miles (50 km) due east of the city of Bellingham, Mt. Baker is the youngest volcano in the Mt. Baker volcanic field.

Mt. Baker, 3 Day Ascent

10,781′

The three day itinerary for a Mt. Baker ascent is best for those who want a little more time on the mountain for learning, climbing, rest, and experience. In addition to a summit bid, this itinerary allows for a glacier skills clinic. This clinic may cover skills like: snow anchors, ice anchors, hauling systems, rope travel and glacier navigation. Depending on conditions and timing, this trip can take place on ether the north or south side of the mountain. You are more than welcome to request a route.

Day before departure: Meet at 3pm for pre-trip meeting.

Day 1: Hike to Base Camp & Glacier Skills

Day 2: Summit Bid and back to Base Camp

Day 3: Descend to Cars

Mt. Baker, 2 Day Ascent

10,781′

The two day itinerary for a Mt. Baker ascent is best for those with excellent fitness and a quick tag of the summit. This itinerary does allow for some brief glacier skills and some rest before the big summit push. Depending on conditions and timing, this trip can take place on ether the north or south side of the mountain. You are more than welcome to request a route.

Day before departure: Meet at 3pm for pre-trip meeting.

Day 1: Hike to Base Camp & Glacier Skills

Day 2: Summit Bid and back to car.

The two day trip could take place on one of the following route:

Mt. Baker, North Ridge Ascent

10,781′

North Ridge – One of the best snow and ice climbs in the United States. This is a demanding route with prior ice climbing experience necessary. One of the factors that making this climb so enticing is its relative safety to technical difficulty ratio. Many climbs like this face objective hazards that are largely out of the control of the climber. The North Ridge however, for the competent climber, offers a lower stress experience free of avalanche and ice-fall hazard. . The route begins as the Coleman Deming and then traverses under the Coleman Headwall before gaining the ridge. Crevasse navigation is the biggest challenge on this part of the route. Once on the ridge, climbers will enjoy steep but relatively easy snow/ice climbing on a well defined ridge on the approach to the summit ice cap. When the cap is reached the climb ascends 50-70 degree ice for 3 – 6 pitches to the summit and is the most spectacular section of the route. To descend climbers follow the Coleman-Deming route back to camp.

5 Day Mountaineering Course

Rock, Ice & Glacier Travel

5-day Mountaineering Course: This comprehensive course will cover many of the essential aspects of mountaineering needed to climb entry level alpine climbs in the lower 48. Topics include: Basic Rock Craft (from anchor building to belaying),  Ice Climbing, Crevasse Rescue, and a summit bid of Mt. Baker. The 5 day itinerary allows for plenty of time to practice new skills and even makes room for the possibility of poor weather. This course is perfect for the climber who is looking to expand their skills beyond the rock crag and start learning the art or Alpinism.

More Info

The Routes We Climb

10,781′

On Mt. Baker MMG operates on four major climbing routes: Squak Glacier & Easton Glacier on the south side of the mountain; Coleman Deming and North Ridge on the north side of the mountain. Each of these routes has something special to offer.

South Side:

Easton Glacier – defined by gentle rising slopes and large expansive glaciers the Easton Glacier is one of the most moderate of all glacier routes in the range, making it an excellent choice for those new to glacier travel. This route is not to be underestimated however. All these factors that make it so appealing, also provide the climber with significant challenges. Weather in the form of fog or snow can make navigation extremely difficult. With no ridge lines, cliff lines, or gullies to use as navigational handrails only strong navigational skills can get one up and down the mountain safely in these conditions. The climber is also likely to see and pick their way around large crevasse features as large as Mt. Rainer or any other big mountain.

  • Squak Glacier – Similar to the Easton, yet slightly steeper and more direct, this routes climbs a blunt ridge line to intersect with the Easton Glacier route at Sherman Peak.
  • The Sherman Creator is an active steam vent that both the above routes go by. It is an amazing place to catch the sunrise and eat 2nd, 3rd, or 4th Only these two routes pass the creator and are well worth doing. When hanging out near the creator one can really feel the power and spirit of our planet and universe alike.

 

 

North Side

  • Coleman Deming – is probably the most popular route on the mountain due to its moderate level of challenge yet high level of success among recreational climbers. Similar to the south side routes, climbers start up the gentle slopes of the Coleman Glacier as they make their way to the col that divides the Coleman from the Deming. From the col, climbers face the “Roman Wall”, the most significant challenge of the climb. From the altitude of approximately 9,000 feet to the summit at 10,700 feet, climbers engage with a steep glacier climb. This climbing is extremely rewarding and has been a defining moment in many climber’s lives.

North Ridge – See Above.

Land Manager

Permit

The land and commercial permit provider is part of the US Forrest Service Baker Snoqualmie National Forrest and is one of the most visited forests in the country. Many opportunities for hiking, climbing and skiing lie within this National Forrest.

Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forrest

2930 Wetmore Ave.,

Suite 3A

Everett, WA, 98201