In an effort to provide the highest quality service to our guests Mooney Mountain Guides Operates in a variety of areas throughout the USA. Based on experience and feedback from our guests we recognize the value of climbing with guides you know and trust. We realize that we can be everywhere, but we hope that the variety of venues and destinations listed here will provide some inspiration in planning your next mountain advenutre.
Beginning in Mid June, MMG begins its Pacific Northwest climbing season. Early season is particularly attractive to climbers from the northeast due to a wide variety of climbing styles available during this time of year. Climbing on the Glaciated peaks of the North West is a breath taking experience that you will never forget.
Trips Scheduled on a Custom Basis. See Above:
Rumney Rocks – Located on the southern edge of the White Mountain National Forest in Rumney, NH, this venue encompasses about 30 crags and over 700 established climbing routes. While the bulk of the climbing is sport, there are also over 250 bolder problems and many, mostly older, trad routes. The climbing is diverse and well suited for the first timer to the high end project seeker. The rock encompasses mostly schist which provides excellent well defined holds in a stunning variety of sequences.
The rock climbing includes the classic lines on Cannon Cliff, the single pitch trad routes of Echo Crag, the amazing position of Artist’s Bluff and the alpine routes on Eagle Cliff including the Eaglet, New Hampshire’s only free standing spire. The climbing ranges from easy/moderate top roping to long multi-pitch ascents. Rock Climbing here on the exceptional alpine rock is our personal favorite. Of all the places we have climbed around the world, rock climbing in Franconia Notch is hard to match almost anywhere.
The rock climbing on Cannon Cliff deserves its own page. The cliff is New Hampshire’s largest and is home to legendary trad routes, such as: The Whitney-Gilman Ridge, Moby Grape, Vertigo, Lake View, Duet Direct-Direct. The climbing ranges from easy/moderate multi-pitch ascents to the very difficult. Despite its reputation climbing here is on the exceptional alpine rock. Just like any Alpine venue, specific objective hazards exist. Your guide will be an AMGA Certified Rock Guide, Alpine Guide, or Rock Instructor. Completely trained and certified to guide in this complex terrain.
North Conway, New Hampshire
Cathedral Ledge – Just Minutes from N. Conway village, Cathedral Ledge is known for its impeccable granite. Classic climbs like Bombardment 5.8, Funhouse 5.7, Upper Refuse 5.5, Recompense 5.9, Thin Air 5.6, and the cracks of the North End that all help set the standards for rock climbing in the United States. With something for everyone, rock climbing on Cathedral Ledge is a must do for all north east climbers.
North Conway, New Hampshire
Whitehorse Ledge – Just minutes from N. Conway and named after a white water streak resembling an image of a horse (no longer visible) is perhaps best well known for the sea of perfect granite known as “the slabs”. This 1200′ tall monolith is a wonderful place for a guided day and is accessible to a total beginner. Not to be overlooked, the spectacular South Buttress is home to such classics as Loose Lips 5.10, Atlantis 5.10, Inferno 5.8, Hotter than Hell 5.9+, and Tranquility 5.10. Best in early and late season due to is SE aspect, these are classic spectacular and exciting rock climbs.
Huntington Ravine is located on the east side of Mt. Washington and is the next cirque north of the famous Tuckerman Ravine. About the same size as Tucks, Huntington Ravine is must steeper and hosts a number of narrow gullies flaked by steep buttresses. These buttresses are home to some excellent alpine rock climbs: Pinnacle Buttress, Damnation Buttress, Henderson Ridge, & Skywalker are some of our favorite. Rock climbing in Huntington Ravine is a great way to beat the heat of summer in the valleys and enjoy the alpine breeze.
Mt. Washington & The Presidential Range
Mt. Washington & The Presidential Range comprise the most expansive and continuous alpine terrain in the east. Home to classic rock climbing in Huntington’s Ravine, world class hiking to high summits, and three high huts. The higher elevations keep temperatures cooler during the summer months, a great way to beat the heat. Summit Mt. Washington, rock climb Pinnacle Buttress, or complete a Presidential Traverse.
Southern New Hampshire Crags
Close to Home
Believe it or not southern New Hampshire has a host of easily accessible crags and boulders perfect for a quick midweek day, a weekend away from the crowds, or a course on anchor building or rescue systems. Climb on amazing granite and spend a little less time in the car.
Maybe better known for its winter climbing, Crawford Notch is home to many fine rock climbs. Across the Universe, Lost in the Sun, and Endeavor to name a few 5 start routes. The rock in Crawford Notch is generally Characterized as steep slab with lots of friction. Make no mistake these climbs can be long and can involve complex approaches. However the rewards are amazing.
Crawford Notch is known for its great ice scattered throughout its length that include Mt. Willard, Willey Slide, Frankenstein Cliff and Mt Webster’s classic alpine route Shoestring Gully. These areas include a vast variety of routes from single pitch to several pitch all day ascents giving many days worth of challenges for the first-time climber or the seasoned veteran.
Franconia Notch – Ice Climbing in the notch includes some of the most sought after routes in the Northeast. The classic alpine routes, The Black Dike and Fafnir, are known throughout the ice climbing world for their rugged adventure. The short steep routes in The Flume and the variety of Echo Crag to the numerous other flows in the area provide lots of opportunities for your day or multi-day outing.
The Alpine Climbing classics in the notch include the Franconia Ridge Traverse, Lincoln’s Throat, and The Whitney-Gilman Ridge. Many other lesser known objectives provide suburb winter mountaineering opportunities for the Northeast climber.
The ice climbing on Cannon Cliff deserves its own page. The cliff is New Hampshire’s largest and is home to legendary ice routes, such as: The Black Dike, Fafner, Vertigo, & Omega. The climbing ranges from moderate to the very difficult depending on the conditions. Climbers should be proficient in ice climbing movement following WI4+ and have multi-pitch ice climbing experience. The Black Dike is often best in early season, however, all these routes are dynamic and can come into shape at surprising times.
The ice climbing at Frankenstien is legendary. It is home to the classics Standard Route, Dracula, and Chia. The venue is divided up into a few major sections with many smaller, but not lesser flows in between. The climbing at Frankenstein can host the beginner all the way to the advanced climber. Perfect for a guided day or a week long ice climbing vacation.
Rumney provides a short season of very good ice. The southerly aspect of the hillside provides the solar energy needed to keep the water flowing and with some cold nights and days, ice builds up in several areas giving some easy access ice from grades I-II to grade V.
Lake Willoughby is one of the finest steep waterfall ice climbing areas in the United States. In terms of sheer volume of vertical ice, there is no place in the east like it with its 500′ columns towering over the lake.
The Lake is located in Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom in a spectacular setting. The cliffs of Mt Pisgah rise up for hundreds of feet from the narrow fjord like valley that cradles the state’s deepest lake. These sheer rock walls are plastered with ice columns up to 500 feet high.
The lake is best experienced with a two day trip where you will ascend of a few of the Lakes challenging multi pitch ice climbs.
Back Country Skiing
Back Country Skiing – New Hampshire has a lifetime of backcountry skiing, touring, and ski mountaineering hidden in the hills. With advances in ski technology, the sport is experiencing a renaissance in the north east. From mellow terrain for the intermediate skier, to powder filled tree lines, and thrilling gullies, there is something to ski almost every day throughout the season.
Mount Washington & The Presidential Range – Ice Climbing, Alpine Climbing, and Ski Mountaineering: The infamous Mt. Washington and the surrounding alpine peaks are known for their extreme weather.
For the classic mountaineer, a winter summit of Mt. Washington via any of its world class routes is a quiver in the cap. For the alpine climber, the terrain of Huntington Ravine is the most popular, however, the 25 mile long range has much more offer. The skier does not have to battle the crowds in Tuckerman Ravine in the spring. Excellent skiing can be found January – April throughout the entire range.
Acadia National Park
Less than a day’s drive from Boston, Acadia National Park, located on Mount Desert Island in Maine, bestows some of the most scenic rock climbing this side of the Mississippi River. Seaside venues like the famous Otter Cliffs, or the beautiful longer routes on the Precipice offer impeccable granite climbing with ocean views. Comfortable camping in the park or lodging in Bar Harbor provide close access to the climbing. These elements pair with cool ocean breezes and come together to create the idyllic summer rock climbing vacation. Open to all ability levels. Two or three day trips recommended to experience the best of what Acadia has to offer