New Hampshire Mountain Guides Art Mooney UIAGM-AMGA Certified Mountain Guide


Haute Route Ski Tour
March 21-29, 2008


The Haute Route is without a doubt the world's most famous ski tour. It is an incredible journey through the heart of the glaciers and high peaks of the West Alps. Skiing the high mountains and long glaciers of these mountains is high on the wish list of many accomplished ski-mountaineers. Its long tradition goes back well into the 1800's when the rugged traverse was done for the first time from Argentiere, France to Zermatt, Switzerland. Over the past decades the popularity of this tour has grown and with this several different routes from Argentiere to Zermatt or from Zermatt to Argentiere have become recognized as the Haute Route of the West Alps.

Although the traditional Haute Route travels from Argentiere to Zermatt, many ski-mountaineers enjoy the tour more coming from Zermatt. Of course the mountains are still the same, regardless in which direction someone skis the Haute Route. The big difference is in how much walking or downhill skiing is preferred. It is difficult to argue which route is best. The Zermatt to Chamonix route has much more downhill skiing and less uphill touring, so it is better in those aspects. It also is less traveled, so we have more fresh snow on the descents and less traffic on our uphill climbs. For these reasons we usually guide the Haute Route starting in Zermatt and finishing in Chamonix. This will give you the luxury of climbing more famous peaks and skiing longer runs as we avoid the well known Haute Route crowd.

The Haute Route is much more than just skiing. Enjoying the different mountain cultures of the western Alps, living in the mountain refuges and small mountain villages, and eating the local specialties our all parts of this fabulous and unique experience.

How Hard is the Haute Route?
The Haute Route takes place in very rugged, steep terrain and in high mountains. The terrain leads along heavily crevassed glaciers as well as over high mountain notches with great exposure. Some of the mountain notches are too high and steep and can't be skied. In that case the guide will lower all guests on a long rope.

Ski touring uphill with the aid of skins can be hard. Warm spring conditions often require early starts to avoid touring in the late afternoon heat, which can jeopardize the group's safety. On an average day the group departs from the mountain refuges at 5:30 AM and reaches the next refuge at around 1:00 PM. It is common for the surface of the snow to be covered by hard, frozen early morning corn-snow or hard pressed wind-snow. For such conditions the use of "harscheisen"(ski-crampons) are a must. These are sharp knifelike metal devices that attach to the base of the skis and prevent slipping sideways or from taking a bad fall while climbing uphill.

The downhill ski slopes are not gentle or easy to come down. Often they are steep and very long. Weather can change the snow conditions quickly. It is not unusual for snow conditions to make the skiing difficult. Of course it is very possible to encounter perfect powder snow or spring corn-snow creating ski runs you will remember for a lifetime.

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How good of a skier do I need to be?
The West Alps Haute Route is not a high ski traverse for only the extreme or expert skier. It is a ski mountaineering trip of average difficulty, which should be easily managed by strong intermediate ski mountaineers who have extended downhill ski experience. However, the definition of a strong intermediate often gets interpreted differently. What one person thinks is a strong downhill skier or ski-mountaineer with strong physical endurance, could be seen by another person as a less than average strong skier or by yet another person as a super athlete. So where do you fit in? If you live worlds away from any high mountains and you compare yourself with the average to strong skier of your area, this might not mean that you can handle the physical and skiing technical demands of the Haute Route. However if you ski mountaineer or enjoy another challenging endurance sport on a regular basis, such as cross-country skiing, mountain biking, mountain running, or long distance running then you should be physically strong enough for the Haute Route. Furthermore if you downhill ski on a regular basis in a ski area which has a reputation for its difficult runs and you can keep up on all the runs with locals then yes, you are an excellent skier.

On the Haute Route you have to be an accomplished downhill skier who can ski efficiently and safely any moderately steep (30 degrees, black diamond steepness) mountain slope in all kinds of snow conditions with a heavy pack of about 20 lb.. It is important that you can parallel link 30 short-radius turns on all snow conditions (in telemark or alpine touring gear). Furthermore, you have to be physically healthy, able to acclimatize to elevations of up to 13,000 feet (the highest hut we will sleep will be at 12,000') and you have to be physically in very good shape. It is important that you can ski tour uphill with a pack of about 20 lb.. for 8 hours and cover ski-climbs of up to 5000 vertical feet plus manage some longer downhill ski runs comfortably.

It does happen that people get tired from the strenuous climbing and often become exhausted. In that case there are alternate routes we can take to lessen the difficulty of the tour.

Before the tour starts we will ski for a day in Zermatt to help our bodies acclimate and to assess individual skiing abilities. These days will be a lot of fun as there is some great skiing around Zermatt and will help insure the success of the tour.

If you wish to ski the Great West Alps Haute Route but are not sure of your physical and/ or technical skiing ability level then we strongly recommend that you spend a few days ski mountaineering with us in the Presidential Range of New Hampshire. This will help dispel your doubts about whether you can or cannot do the Haute Route, and will help your conditioning for the Haute Route.

Suggested Itinerary for the Zermatt to Chamonix Haute Route
Day 1: We meet in the evening in Zermatt, for introductions and dinner. We spend the night at the Pension Burgener after a dinner in town.

Day 2: We go skiing! We ski at Zermatt's local areas, the Rothorn Paradise and the Gornergrat. This will help us acclimate and will be a good test of our skiing abilities. We have dinner in town and stay at the Pension Burgener.

Day 3: We go skiing again! Today we ski at another of Zermatt's local areas, the Matterhorn glacier paradise. Tonight's dinner and lodging is at the Pension Burgener.

Day 4: We ride a tram to the Little Matterhorn at 3883 m. We have the option of ski-climbing the Breithorn, a peak which is 4146 m in elevation. We then make a ski descent around the Matterhorn to the base of the Zmutt Glacier. After our descent we ski climb to the Schoenbiel Hut at 2694 m where we spend our first night in an European mountain refuge.

Day 5: In the morning we make a ski descent to 2540 m down gorgeous slopes. We then ski climb to the Tete Blanche at 3724 m, followed by a ski descent down the Glacier du Mont Mine to 3160 m. We then make a ski climb to the Cab. de Bertol at 3311 m where we spend the night. During this day we also have the option of climbing the Tete de Valpelline in the morning, before we climb to the Tete Blanche.

Day 6: We begin the day with a short ski descent, followed by a ski climb to the Dent de Bertol at 3524 m. We then make a long ski descent to the village of Arolla, Switzerland. We dine in the village and spend the night in the Hotel Glacier.

Day 7: In the morning we ride a lift up to 2740 m. We then make a ski climb up to the Cabane des Dix at 2928 m. We then have the option of climbing to the summit of the la Luette (3548 m) and making a beautiful ski descent back to the Cabane des Dix.

Day 8: We depart from the hut early and tour up the Glacier de Cheilon to the col at 3243m. From the col we continue and cross the Glacier du Gietro to another col, the Col du Mont Rouge at 3345m. From this col we have a short downhill ski onto the Glacier de Lire Rose then climb to the next col at 3115m. From this col we then make a beautiful ski descent to the Cabane des Chanrion at 2462 m.

Day 9: In the morning we descend on skis to 2200 m, then climb to the Col - Fenetre de Durand 2797m. We then descend to Glacier at 1549 m. Up until this point we have been ski touring in Switzerland. The descent to Glacier brings us into Italy. From Glacier we take a taxi to La Palud - Courmayeur and stay at the hotel Vallee Blanche in La Palud.

Day 10: In the morning we take the aerial tram to Point Helbronner - Mont Blanc, el. 3462 m. Now its time for a beautiful descent into France on the Vallee Blanche one of the finest ski runs in the world. We end the day in the town of Chamonix and enjoy a fine meal in the town and stay in the Hotel de L'Arve.

Day 11: In the morning we enjoy a French breakfast and celebrate the end of a great trip!


Haute Route Ski Tour Fees:
Cost: $2450 (client to guide ratio 5:1)

-To book this program we require a 30% deposit of the total program cost.
-We ask that you send us full payment no later than two months prior to the program starting date.

Program Cost Inclusions
From our meeting time in Zermatt to the end of our tour in Chamonix
   UIAGM / AMGA certified guide Art Mooney
  -All public transportation
  -Hotel lodging
  -Mountain huts

Program Cost Exclusions
  -Travel to and from airport
  -Airfare to and from Europe
  -Personal Equipment
  -Rental fees if necessary
  -Airport taxes
  -Rescue Insurance
  -Items of a personal nature


Why go with us?
  • IFMGA certified guide. Our guides have completed courses in rock, alpine, and ski mountaineering guiding. Because we are trained to an international standard we utilize the safest and most current guiding techniques. Because of our high level of training we our some of only a handful of Americans who can legally guide in Europe.
  • -Low client to guide ratios. We climb and ski at ratios lower than most guide services to minimize risk and increase chances of successful climbs and ski tours.
  • -Skiing day in Zermatt. Most companies arrive in Zermatt and leave for the Haute Route tour the following day. Our skiing day in Zermatt will allow our bodies some time to acclimate to the European mountain air and will help insure that everyone is up to the skiing demands of the Haute Route tour.
  • -You will know who your guide will be on the tour. We can tell you who you will be skiing with when you sign up for the trip.

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General Information

How to get to Zermatt:
It is your own responsibility to get to Zermatt on time. We strongly recommend that you arrive at least 3 days early in Zermatt to recover from any "jet-lag: and so that you can acclimatize to the elevation of the Haute Route while skiing on the Little Matterhorn or Gornergrat. Skiing in these two areas is a lot of fun plus you will enjoy the panorama of the entire West Alps.

The best way to get to Zermatt from North America is via Frankfurt, Milan or London to Geneva. From there board the Swiss Train which will depart right from Geneva International Airport. Take the train as far as Brig. There change the trains and board the scenic mountain-train to Zermatt.

We ask that you buy this train ticket from your travel agent in North America. After you arrive in Zermatt please keep this train ticket until the very end of the Haute Route. In case you have to buy more train-tickets with the Swiss Rail System this previous ticket will allow you for half-fare rates.

How to get from Chamonix, France back to Geneva:
The best way to get back to the Geneva International Airport is by taxi. If three to five people share on taxi then the cost will be equal or less than with public transportation. The drive from Chamonix to the airport takes one hour by taxi. There are also public transportation systems available such as the French train system and a public bus System.

Money:
In Zermatt and in Chamonix all stores, restaurants, and transportation systems accept all major credit cards such as Visa or Mastercard. Still we recommend that you carry some cash. It is also recommended that you carry some traveler checks in your own currency for emergencies. The currency used in Switzerland is the Swiss Franc, Italy and France use the Euro.

Passport:
Check well in advance of your Haute Route trip to see if your passport is still valid. If at the time of the trip your passport will have less than 6 months until its expiration we recommend you get a new one.

Alpine Club Membership and Insurance:
We strongly recommend that people coming on this trip join the American Alpine Club. This will give you worldwide rescue insurance up to elevations of 16,000', plenty high for our Haute Route tour. You can contact the American Alpine Club by going to their website at americanalpineclub.org. If you are a member of the American Alpine Club or the Canadian Alpine Club please bring your valid membership card with you.

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Equipment for the Tour:

It is ESSENTIAL that all of your gear for the Haute Route be in excellent shape. Make sure that you check everything for faults or weaknesses that could lead to breakdowns while on the tour.

Skis: Check for cracks, broken edges, or delamenation on the base and actual ski construction. The skis should have a minimum width of 90 mm at the shovel.

Ski bindings: You need to have alpine touring bindings for the Haute Route. We recommend the Diamir Freerides available from Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd. at bdel.com. Make sure that the ski-bindings are properly adjusted to your ability level and weight to give you the needed safety. Further check for any faults in the binding and its functions. Make sure that all screws holding the bindings in place are secure and solid in the ski! A broken binding could lead YOU and YOUR aute Route friends into TROUBLE. (if you are unfamiliar with the security or settings of your bindings bring them to a ski mechanic to have them checked, explaining the ski trip you are intending to embark on to them.)

Climbing skins: The climbing skins have to fit your ski perfectly. They have to cover the entire underside of the ski completely. Re-glue the climbing skins prior to the trip to avoid skin failure. We will not accept strap-on skins such as the Voile Snake Skins for any of our programs, as they have no glide whatsoever. We STRONGLY RECOMMEND a new pair of skins for this tour.

Ski crampons: It is important that your ski crampons or "Harscheisens" fit perfectly on your ski bindings.

Avalanche Equipment: It is imperative that your avalanche beacon is relatively new, in good working order. You will also need a lightweight shovel and a probe pole.

Clothing: Check all your clothing for any faults or weaknesses. Use only high quality clothing.

  2 pair synthetic underwear
  1 pair synthetic lightweight long underwear bottoms
  2 pair synthetic lightweight long underwear tops
  2 pair thick synthetic or wool socks
  1 expedition weight long underwear bottom or schoeler pants (recommended)
  1 expedition weight long underwear top
  1 schoeler jacket or pile, fleece
  Gortex or similar wind shell with full coverage hood
  Gortex pant or similar w/ gaiter/powderskirt attachment
  1 pair light or mid weight liner gloves
  1 pair gloves or mitts
  1 pair heavy over mitts
  Wool or synthetic balaclava
  Wool or synthetic warm hat
  Sunhat
  Small ski gaiters if your pants do not have built-in gaiter
  100% UV sunglasses and ski goggles
  1 pair of extra sunglasses (cheap ones okay)
  2 1 liter water bottles, with insulating covers

Climbing harness: We recommend a lightweight alpine climbing harness, 2 locking carabiners: Any type will do.

Headlamp: Consider at Petzl Tikka or any of the similar LED lamps as they are lightweight and simple to operate.

Mini first aid kit: A few items you think you might personally need. These could include moleskin, band aids, tape, and aspirin/ibuprofen.

Sunscreen and Lip-protectant: SPF 30 or greater, Dermatone sticks are great

Camera and film: There are going to be a lot of great photo opportunities on this tour. Make sure your camera is in good operating condition and that you have extra batteries. A small disposable camera can be a good backup item if your good camera malfunctions for some reason.

Backpack: Make sure that you do not use a large expedition pack with all the bells and whistles. A simple pack always works best and carries well. It should have a minimum capacity of 2745 cubic inches, but a maximum of 3100 cubic inches. It should have straps to carry your ski crampons, ice axe, and skis.

Luggage: We ask that you bring all your travel and Haute Route luggage to Zermatt. After our meeting time the guides will help you sort out all needed gear for the ski-trip. All unnecessary gear and clothing will be put in an additional travel bag and sent by train to Chamonix, France. It will take about three days to arrive there. All expenses to ship additional luggage to Chamonix,France will be the responsibility of each Haute Route guest. We strongly recommend that you carry on the actual ski-trip across the Haute Route only what you really need. A heavy pack will work against you and can cut down on efficiency and comfort.


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Mooney Mountain Guides
638 Old Bristol Rd. ~ New Hampton, NH 03256
Phone: 603-744-5853 ~ Contact: art@mooneymountainguides.com


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