It was 4am and the Epinepherine move was on. Coffee was had in the hotel room with PB and J’s for breakfast. Jerry and I new this early start was needed for this long traditional route in the Black Velvet Canyon. The route proper is 1500 feet of technical climbing which leads to 700 ft of 4th and 5th class scrambling with high exposure – total route is 2200ft.

The Main Event of the route is the 300ft of chimney pitches which lead one to the stacked 5.9 corners which continue for another 700 ft or so. We prepared for the route by climbing the previous three days on the routes Group Therapy, Dark Shadows and Sundog. All had a small amount of the wide stuff to get us in the groove. One main goal was to have quick transitions to keep us move fast another was to be lightweight.  We carried minimal gear in our small Mammut Neon Packs and the racks and ropes were on our backs.

The day was excellent, we ended up second in line with another party on our tail. The climbing was very physical in the chimneys and the corners were steep and technical. Over all good fun climbing in a wildly exposed setting.

Enjoy the photos of the Red Rock classic route – Epinephrine.


First light as we start up pitch one.


Early morning glow on the wall.

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The Main Event – Chimneys and Corners!!!


The upper wall comes into view.


The exposure starts to get good on pitch 7.


Jerry – focused on the moves high on the wall.


Early afternoon on the summit of Black Velvet Peak.

Thanks to Jerry for joining me on this spectacular climb.

Art Mooney