It has been a long time since my last visit to the New River Gorge. I have been to the Red River, Foster Falls, the Tennesse Wall numerous times but the New River remained off the list for some reason. Terry and I looked into flights to Charleston West Virginia and to our surprise we found  cheap air tickets, this past week was open so we made it back to the New River.

First stop was the Waterstone Outdoor shop for the latest beta and New River Guide book. It was mid day so from there it was quick to head over to Kaymoor to sample the southern sandstone. Our first climbs were steep, pumpy, and sporty. I had forgotten that most of these sport routes were bolted in the 80’s and early 90’s when bolts were well spaced. I found the need to manage the forearm pump and also keep a cool and calm head on many of the climbs we did.

Over the course of our week we climbed at Central Endless, Summersville, Bubba City, Fern Point and the Whipporwill areas. Mid week was very quiet and on the weekend locals and mid atlantic folks were out enjoying some fine fall climbing conditions. The weather for the week was awesome sun each day with temps in the low 50’s.

Today we head back to NH. Hoping for either warm weather or for the winter to kick into gear. It is time to climb ice but I wouldn’t mind a few more sunny days on the rock.

New River local info.

Fern Point approach – down the ladder through the tunnel.

Scenic vistas from the rim.

Terry loving the soft sandstone rock.

Summersville Lake area – just great – water and the stone meet up again.

Technical face led to this fun roof with big holds.

Beautiful climbing at Bubba City area.

Bubba City again – nice lieback crack to the face above.

Another lake area – Whipporwill.

Terry on our last lead as the sun starts setting.

The New River has over a few thousand routes,  over half are traditional and then the rest are the sport routes. If you can come down be sure to bring a trad rack, some sport draws.  You will be treated to some fine sandstone rock climbing.

Art Mooney