Vermont Ice Climbing

Moderate Temps on Sunday Morning- Game on!

Last Sunday Matthew and I caught a break from the recent frigid temps and spent the day climbing some Smuggler’s Notch classics. On holiday from Australia, Matthew had plans to sample some Vermont ice, and the weather couldn’t have been better. We decided to head to the South Wall, which tends to serve up a great selection of consistently well-formed single and multi-pitch ice routes. Today was no exception, and we found plenty of ice.

The agenda for the day was to expand on some technical skills, explore some interesting terrain and get in as many ice pitches possible. Matthew has a solid climbing background, and was hungry both to climb and to learn. During the day we were able to cover a bunch of topics including ice evaluation and basic screw placements, belaying techniques and efficient movement skills.

We began on the steep and wet Blue Room, a great challenge with varying ice conditions. Great place to hone movement skills.

steep start

Matthew midway on Blue Room

Matthew blue roomNearing the anchor.

stacking tools

After descending a dripping Blue Room, we continued along the South Wall to climb a two pitch moderate flow. The view from the top was brilliant, and we were able to practice some V-threads on the way down.

Rappel

 

Matthew on top

One thing I’ve learned living in New England is that a splitter day during the winter months is a gift!

! Thank you Matthew for a great and enjoyable outing. It’s always awesome spending a day climbing in the Notch, especially with good company and good weather.

Derrek Anderson

The time is here – New Hampshire & Vermont Ice climbs and Mountains are ready for your guided winter ascent. Here at Mooney Mountain Guides we do our part by holding an annual pre -winter guides training day . The theme varies from year to year but one thing is common – frequent meet ups and training with the MMG guides put us all on a similar page when we are working alone or together in the mountains.

IMG_6672

New complete anchor

One theme this year was to Yank the Mank on Kinsman Notch Ice Climbs. The guides climbed all of the popular routes at the main area and cut out all the old webbing and replaced with bomber new redundant rope anchors – complete with double links to use when descending the routes.

IMG_0674The Mank – old webbing and tat in need of replacement.

IMG_6692

As always another theme for the guides was to ice climb. This is what we love to do climb and ascend ice routes of all types is what we did.

IMG_6691

Todd getting into action!!!

IMG_6683

Mike working up the center route – tricky crux at the top.

  IMG_0675

Jim – MMG’s Mountain Master.

IMG_6671

Erik – thank you – for prepping all the anchor material.

IMG_6660

No down time today – a technical clinic.

Refresh, Renew, Reboot the mind.

 IMG_6665

Simple Anchors – the connection to ice and the belay.

    IMG_6698

Erik and Matt

IMG_0679

Efficiency when working the Window Munter and One Handed Clove

IMG_0681

Mooney Mountain Guides Team.

Thanks to all for joining in.

Big Thanks to Mammut for our new Trion Pro guide pack!!!

Art Mooney