Jerry is back on the rock. After a few weeks rest he was ready and excited to log in some pitches at Whitehorse. It was a bit on the hot side so we cruised up to the Sliding Board headwall and took a run on Wavelength then descended to the shade of the forest.
The left of the slab section of the cliff looked to be partly shaded so we went over to Short Order 5.8+. This is a great route with a scrappy crack and face to climb on pitch one then a beautiful clean face on the second pitch.
Next on our list was the Seventh Seal. Slippery feet are overcome by tight finger locks in the granite crack. This is one of the must do cracks on Whitehorse for sure.
We kept going with the Beelzebub Corner then completed our day by climbing the first pitch of Sleepy Beauty.
Whitehorse – The Sea of Granite.
View from the headwall.
Short Order P1.
Sharp lieback finish to Short Order.
In the heat – The Seventh Seal
Good ole trad climbing NH style – Beelzebub Corner.
Jerry topping out on Sleepy Beauty.
Great day climbing on Whitehorse.
It was the first day of summer also NH’s first heat wave. Rumney was the place to be with belays spots and climbing routes in the shade of the forest. I was quite surprised at how comfortable the climbing was with temps in the mid nineties through the day. Aubrey and I worked the cliff in both directions and logged in ten pitches of climbing. Just enough to drain our energy and tenderize our finger tips.
Aubrey on the Arete 5.10+
Egg McMeadows 5.10a the Parking Lot Wall.
Meadows Area left side – Dung Beetle 5.8
Easy Terms 5.8
Aubrey after the crux of the intricate Easy Terms.
If you trying to escape the heat of summer try out the shaded routes at Rumney on a hot day, you may be surprised.
Two Boston area Doctors Karen and Kelly joined me for a tour of Rumney Rocks this past weekend. The weekend was warm and sunny with lots of climbers around enjoying our first stretch of good weather in a while. We climbed at the Meadows and the 5.8 Crag sampling a few of the areas classics routes in the 5.8 to 5. 10+ range.
Karen on lead on Lies and Propaganda 5.9 – Meadows area.
Kelly prepping for Romancing the Stone – 5.8 Crag
Kelly leading Snakeskin Slab.
Karen working the rests on Romancing the Stone.
The Steep schist of Rumney.
Thanks to Kelly and Karen.
Terry and I climbed for two days at the Gunks. Our timing could not have been better, cool crisp mornings led to warmer temps and fine rock climbing by mid day. We climbed multiple routes in the Trapps mostly repeats but fun none the less. The steep overhangs can be quite challenging but once you understand the rock you realize there will be a jug of a hold coming up very soon.
Terry on the Son of Easy O.
The Trapps viewed from the drive in – over a mile of routes with the carriage road along the base for easy access.
Terry on the classic climb CCK – headed for the overhangs on the direct finish.
Another great route called Strickly from Nowhere.
I am already looking forward to our next trip here its an amazing place to climb.