NH Rockclimbing

Join in on Saturday evening at Evolution Rock and Fitness!!!

Northeast Climbers Clinic

Over the past three days Jerry and I gathered information and photos at Rumney Rocks for Evolutions presentation this Saturday. The prime topic is  safety awareness for the climbing community. Rumney Rocks is the perfect place to take newly learned indoor climbing skills to the outdoor climbing world. Its also the place where many first time and experienced climbers make common mistakes. One goal of the clinic is to help new and experienced climbers raise their awareness to reduce the chances of future climbing accidents.

IMG_1288   As outdoor enthusiasts – climbers and guides we can be stewards of the land. It is our responsibility to keep our climbing areas in the best shape they can be. This comes with understanding of the LNT principles. Lets all get together and minimize the impact on other climbers and the land – cliffs we are using.

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The Rumney Climbers Association, local climbers, guides have set up Rumney Rocks Climbing routes with these fixed anchors. These permanent anchors are not for top roping they are for the last descent down the route. Please use these only for descending the route as you can see they do wear out.


Closing the system!

Take and active role in getting all climbers to close the system – many climbers have been injured while be lowering off the end of and unclose rope system


Rope stacked and system closed – ready for climbing.


Figure eight – Classic, Elegant, Simple.


Mammut Smart belay – assisted dynamic breaking for the leader and top roper.


Petzl Gri Gri Belay device – another assisted breaking belay device.

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Note closed hands over rope – proper bracing position for leading or lowering


Anchors set ups for Rumney Sport routes. The above is a top choice top rope anchor system for MMG Guides.

IMG_1298This is a simple quick draw anchor set up for short term usage.


Clipping gear the right way!


Looking down at the quick draws and bolts.


Terry enjoying the fun climbing at Rumney Rocks.



See you at Evolution Rock and Fitness.

Art Mooney

Last summer I had the pleasure of climbing Moby Grape with father-daughter team Steve and Bridget Curley. You can check out the post here: http://www.mooneymountainguides.com/blog/cannon/riding-the-granite-time-machine-at-cannon/. On Saturday Bridget returned to Cannon with her sister Sharon for a fine sampling of granite cracks. Climbing is a family affair with the Curleys! The day was hazy, very hot and humid: more reminescent of mid August than early June. Never the less the motivation was high. We cranked out some true classics: The first few pitches of Duet, the first two of Union Jack, Reppy’s Crack, and Slow and Easy. 

Sharon and Bridget at the base of Duet

 Sharon and Bridget at the base of Duet after cruising its

first few superb pitches.


Sharon launches up the wide first pitch of Union Jack

Bridget sizes up the steep and polished layback crux of Union Jack's second pitch.

Bridget sizes up the steep and polished layback crux of Union Jack’s awesome second pitch 


Hot, tired and happy! Descending Cannon’s massive talus field after a great day. 

Thanks for a great day out, Sharon and Bridget. I look forward to climbing again with you soon!Cheers,

Derek Doucet, MMG

Dan and I met in Franconia Notch for a climbing day on the Whitney Gilman Ridge on Cannon Cliff.
We were pretty happy to find one car in the parking lot on Labor Day weekend.  In fact, we were 2 of 6 climbers on Cannon the entire day!
We sorted gear, checked our packs and headed for the long talus approach to the base of the route.
The route is truly a gem of the northeast.  With 600 to 700 feet of moderate alpine granite cracks, face, and slab climbing and incredible views and exposure over the Franconia Parkway.
Dan and I climbed the route in 5 pitches, enjoying the handcrack variation on pitch 3 of the route.  The handcrack pitch has to be one of the most exciting pitches of the grade on the east coast.  The climber must finish the pitch on overhanging rock with the chasm of the Black Dike several hundred feet below.  Dan said the pitch trumps the classic High Exposure route in the Shawangunks.
By the end of the 3rd pitch, the wind was picking up, dark gray clouds rolled in across the top of Cannon Mountain and we decided it was best to keep hustling for the summit.  With two pitches to go we felt the sprinkle of rain but heard no thunder.
We climbed carefully, transitioned quickly, and reached the summit just in time for the afternoon showers.
We high-fived on the summit, celebrating our adventure and good fortune in dodging the inclement weather.

Whitney Gilman Ridge NH.

Dan enjoying his first Cannon experience.

Looking down the steep 5.8 variation.

MMG Guide Stephen on Cannon.

Wild exposure on the top pitch of the route.

Thank you Dan for a really great adventure .

Stephen Cooney

MMG Guide

This day on Cannon was different. I was being guided with Ken by MMG Guide Matt Ritter. You see Matt is getting prepped for his Rock Instructor Exam and he is looking for mileage on a variety of routes. Ken and I teamed up for a two to one ratio on a Cannon Classic – The Whitney Gilman Ridge.

In this role I was able to take a few different photos from below.  What a great day, the team, the weather and no crowds. As you can see Cannon is a great place to be during the fall climbing season.

Suns out guns out.

Pitch One the Whitney Gilman.

The Pipe!

Ken enjoying Cannon the alpine playground.

The crux pitch.

Cannon one of my favorite climbing areas for sure.

Thanks to Ken and Matt for a great day.

Art Mooney

Mike has enjoyed climbing and skiing with MMG for the past eight years. Three years ago he traveled up to Conway with his family to try out rock climbing. Whitehorse was the place to begin with long sweeping slabs that lead to beautiful views of the Mt Washington Valley.

Now every year Jackson and Mylee take it a bit higher. MIleage is the key with climbing and once you become comfortable its much easier to climb to new heights. You will see by the photos Jackson and Mylee are having fun on these wonderful rock routes at Whitehorse Ledge inNorth Conway NH.

Family Photo

Mylee climbing quickly to the top!

Mike and Jackson working the moves together.

You go girl its a figure of eight.

Jackson headed up higher.

Made it to the top!!!

Great climb for Jackson and Mike.

Belay ledges offer a nice break.

Mike and Jackson having a good time.

It is great to be the teacher and watching the kids climb. Each season we do something a bit different with slightly more challenge. Being sure to keep it fun for all.

Thanks to Mike, Amy, Mylee and Jackson for climbing with me.

Art Mooney

Each summer I travel to Acadia to refresh the mind and body. There is something about the ocean, the cool air, great hiking and climbing that puts it all together and re-energizes the body.

This past weekend after a long day on Mt Katahdin, Steve, Chris, Mark, Matt and I drove down east to Bar Harbor. We headed right out to the cliffs and sampled a few of the classic granite crack climbs on the Precipice. We kept our pace through two days and climbed on a variety of routes and mountain hikes. In the evenings we enjoyed the fine eateries in the seaside town of Bar Harbor.

This vacation combination of climbing on Katahdin and Acadia is a great way to replenish the mind and body. Thanks to the Cody team for joining MMG and leaving work and the mid summers heat behind for a weekend of fun and excitement.

Chris and I at Otter Cliffs.

Steep ladders on the Precipice Trail.

Summit of Mt Champlain Acadia Maine.

Approaching the sea cliffs at Otter.

Steve in training – never enough for this guy.

Granite steps and paths lead the way.

Old Town a classic climb on the South Wall.

Chris cruising up the stone.

Acadia trails lined with wrought iron rails.

Another great adventure with Mooney Mountain Guides and the Cody team.

Thanks very much Steve, Chris, Mark it was a blast spending the weekend together.

Art Mooney – Matt Ritter

MMG Guides

Last Friday I had the privilege to climb with Caren, Rich, Emily, and Nicole for the second time. It had been a full year since we had climbed together and I already look forward to next year.

Spending the day with this excited, high energy family is tons of fun. We enjoyed a half day at “Upper Vader”

We sampled climbs ranging from 5.4-5.8 in a supportive and always hilarious atmosphere.

Friday was a hot sunny day though we managed to stay in the shade and enjoy cheddar cheese pretzels and Gatorade between climbs.

Thanks to the whole family for a super fun day! Enjoy the rest of Summer! See you next season!

Matt Ritter

MMG Guide

Father and Daughter team, Bob and Lisa joined us for a half day of sport climbing in Rumney this Wednesday. We headed for the right side of the Venus Wall to climb in the shady and cool Dirtigo Gulley. We spent the day here learning to belay, lower, and tie the rope while we climbed some of the best moderate pitches in the Baker River Valley.

We warmed up on Mowgli Grape, and Dirtigo. These are two super-classic climbs with great views from the top.

After a warmup we needed a little more challenge so we tried our hand at the testy White Knee Gill Man Ridge. A climb that requires balance ant the use of the “smear” technique. Bob and Lisa both performed beautifully on this striking feature.

To wrap up the day we climbed a very tough 5.7 known as Preppy’s Crack. This is a footwork intensive and delicate climb. In order to succeed one must balance and dance from hold to hold. Both Bob and Lisa got to the top in fine style.

Lisa on the belay and Bob about to fire the route!

Lisa stylin’ the moves on “The Ridge”

Bob high on the sunny wall.

Bob now enjoying the shade on Dirtago.

Lisa overcoming the challenging Preppy’s Crack.

Thanks to Bob and Lisa for a great half day! I hope Y’all enjoyed the rest of the day, and found some good swimming.

Matt Ritter

MMG Guide

Vivek and I teamed up on Saturday for a cragging day at Cannon Cliff. Though Cannon is known for hosting some of the best alpine multi-pitch climbing in the east, this thousand foot dome of exfoliating granite is also home to a slue of one and two pitch classics.

We started out on Slow and Easy, a wonderful 5.8 arching crack climb.

Then we went over to the Duet Buttress where we enjoyed two pitches of super classy 5.7 climbing. Pitch one laybacks, jams, and stems up a beautiful corner system. Pitch two starts off with a tough move off the belay followed by some enjoyable off-width on great rock.

We then headed to the Conn Buttress, home to the formidable and famous Reppy’s Crack, one of the purest, clean hand cracks in the east. This pitch is not to be underestimated, as it is burly, and puts a hurt on the ankles if one does not move with assertiveness

To finish off the already full day, we ran a lap on Sinister Satisfaction. The name says it all for this one. Put your friends on this climb and tell them it is 5.8. Soon you too will be giggling with Sinister Satisfaction as they make rounded insecure layback moves that feel a little more like 5.9.

Another great day on the Big Cliff.

We didn’t quite get our fill on Saturday so we returned the next day with Abhinav to climb the Whitney Gillman Ridge. It was a beautiful and very windy day. Just hearing each other was a challenge but we were graced with a mosquito and black flyless climb. We were first in line for the route despite our long winded philosophical conversation on the approach. We made good time to the top and enjoyed easy chatter and each other’s presence on the descent.                      

Thanks to Abhinav and Vivek for a great weekend of adventure in New Hampshire. We hope to see y’all again soon.
Matt Ritter
MMG Guide

John and I enjoyed climbing the ridge on Tuesday. It was a cool windy day just about perfect for climbing on Cannon. The temp on Mt Washington was 45 so I am guessing mid 50’s on the route. This was John’s first climb on Cannon and he enjoyed the Ridge. It is a wild – exciting place to get a first experience on a multi pitch route.

New Hampshire’s Classic Climb – The Whitney Gilman.

John climbing the lichen covered granite.

Glad to have my Mammut wind/rain shell.

John at a mid climb belay station.

John on the top.

Thanks John I hope to climb together again soon.

Art Mooney