I am writing this post from my room at the Devils Tower Lodge. This western style  lodge is owned and operated by climber, guide, raconteur,  Frank Sanders. When you come to climb at the tower Frank is the man to get in touch with. Frank has climbed here since the mid 70’s and knows this place like the back of his hand. Pay him a visit and he will get you started on your Devils Tower Adventure.

Steve and Chris drove through here last summer during a western historical trip. Once they viewed the tower Steve quickly put it on his list of must do climbs. Plans went into action and here we are for a weekend climbing trip. Luck is surely on our side as the weather is perfect, the place is quiet, and the south facing routes are not to hot – just right.

Today we rose early to get our position on the Durance Route a 50 Classics Climb. To our surprise there was only one party ahead of us. We roped up and started our journey into the steep and wide cracks that follow the columns to the top. This multi pitch route put us to the test with sustained climbing on each pitch. We maintained our focus, hydrated often and fueled up with gu gels to keep our energy high. By mid day we topped out on the summit without any close encounters.

It was a fantastic day, in a spectacular setting, with great friends – I must say I love my work as a climbing guide!!!

IMG_1125

Devils Tower – the Durance Route follows the columns in the bright sunlight.

IMG_1135

Welcome to the Lodge.

IMG_1120

Morning view from my room.

IMG_1123

Frank Sanders – telling the stories of the area.

DSCN1533

Steve aka the Repman doing what he loves climbing.

DSCN1535

Chris enjoying the challenging climbing on this wild tower.

DSCN1538

Full steam ahead on the Durance Pitch.

DSCN1539

Chris bear hugging a column, but its time to move on?

DSCN1545

Steve arriving on one of the many large ledges for the belay areas.

DSCN1558

Summit area – over an acre of flat ground up here in the sky.

IMG_1128

Success

IMG_1134

Hundreds on steep crack climbs.

 DSCN1564

The team Chris, Art, Steve.

IMG_1117

What an amazing place to be – thanks to Steve and Chris for making the quick trip out here.

Great memories to take home for sure!!!

Art Mooney

Mooney Mountain Guides