I am writing this post from my room at the Devils Tower Lodge. This western style  lodge is owned and operated by climber, guide, raconteur,  Frank Sanders. When you come to climb at the tower Frank is the man to get in touch with. Frank has climbed here since the mid 70’s and knows this place like the back of his hand. Pay him a visit and he will get you started on your Devils Tower Adventure.

Steve and Chris drove through here last summer during a western historical trip. Once they viewed the tower Steve quickly put it on his list of must do climbs. Plans went into action and here we are for a weekend climbing trip. Luck is surely on our side as the weather is perfect, the place is quiet, and the south facing routes are not to hot – just right.

Today we rose early to get our position on the Durance Route a 50 Classics Climb. To our surprise there was only one party ahead of us. We roped up and started our journey into the steep and wide cracks that follow the columns to the top. This multi pitch route put us to the test with sustained climbing on each pitch. We maintained our focus, hydrated often and fueled up with gu gels to keep our energy high. By mid day we topped out on the summit without any close encounters.

It was a fantastic day, in a spectacular setting, with great friends – I must say I love my work as a climbing guide!!!


Devils Tower – the Durance Route follows the columns in the bright sunlight.


Welcome to the Lodge.


Morning view from my room.


Frank Sanders – telling the stories of the area.


Steve aka the Repman doing what he loves climbing.


Chris enjoying the challenging climbing on this wild tower.


Full steam ahead on the Durance Pitch.


Chris bear hugging a column, but its time to move on?


Steve arriving on one of the many large ledges for the belay areas.


Summit area – over an acre of flat ground up here in the sky.




Hundreds on steep crack climbs.


The team Chris, Art, Steve.


What an amazing place to be – thanks to Steve and Chris for making the quick trip out here.

Great memories to take home for sure!!!

Art Mooney

Mooney Mountain Guides