Aubrey has taken on a powerful approach and I am quite impressed with his dedication to the game.

Each time he joins me for a climb his goal is to clinic on the difficult routes at Rumney. Aubrey enjoys figuring out the complexities of the movements on steep, technical 5.10’s and 5.11s. All of these routes require the climber to think ahead, to use the power when needed and to conserve the energy for the final push to the chains. Our climbing clinics are lengthy lasting 5 or 6 hours on route after route.

Stacking the odds in your favor.

The preparation for these days should be well thought out. The body must be rested prior to the clinic – fresh and energetic is what one needs to push the body and mind to the limit. Equipment should be suited to the game, shoes are a personal choice but a highly important one.

My personal favorite is the Five Ten Arrowhead with Stealth Rubber.

A new standard in high friction rubber with unbeatable hardness for precise edging and stickiness for friction.

The Five Ten Elite team raves about the Arrowhead’s fit and performance. You will instantly feel the difference in the casually down-turned toe and heel cup that grips without pinching. The upper is a supple, breathable Cowdura™ that molds to the foot.

IMG_2181Aubrey on the ground after a run on Know Ethics 5.10 c.


Gold bug Main Cliff another tricky 5.10 plus route.


Steep rock with wild moves up the flaring dihedrals.


Rumney schist – unusual grainy rock, with good friction, underlings – side pulls and many unusual holds.

Aubrey – great day working the routes with you.

Thank you,

Art Mooney