NH Rock Climbing
The adventure begins – here is the entire Cody, Barr and Hall team on top of the summit of Welsh and Dickey.
This was a very special trip – the MMG guides enjoyed showing off the NH climbing areas to Catharine and Nicole who join Team Cody for their first rock and mountain climbing adventure.
This past week Team Cody reached yet another milestone – leading rock climbs!!!
It all took place during the end of summer climbing trip where the main goal was to have a fun time and climb rock and mountains in a variety of areas. We had six days planned so this could easily be achieved if the bodies would do the job – hold up from day after day of climbing.
The other goal planned was to learn the skills to lead rock. Learning the skills is one part then another one comes into play when the sharp end of the rope is taken on – its the focus and the change of mindset that automatically comes on board – it happens to everyone.
We all joked around when Chris tied in for the first lead – the mood immediately took on a serious note – he was Scared Straight!!! Chris did a fine job leading multiple sport routes and Steve took on the challenge too. By days end we all had racked up a few notable leads and we all had a blast of a time.
Team Cody and Barr setting up for the day.
A focused Chris getting some action clipping bolts on lead at Rumney Rocks.
The attentive belay is no easy task – nice work Adel .
Repman alive and feeling the sharp mindset change with the rope hanging below his feet. Fantastic job leading these routes.
Suns out guns out – summer returns to NH.
Cathedral was also on out hit list. It was a hot day so we opted for a fast ascent of the Funhouse and Upper Refuse.
Here I am topping out on the lookout of Cathedral Ledge.
A surprise visit from Alex yielded these great photos. Alex dropped a fixed rope and came down to see and record the action. Here is Steve mid pitch on Funhouse – a three star crack climb!!!
Chris hanging on by a thread – looking casual up high on the granite faces of Cathedral Ledge.
Scared Straight – the vision is clear – more leads and more adventure to come.
Thanks to all of you for an awesome week on the rocks in NH.
The Zieglers made the trek over from Vermont to sample the Rumney Rocks last week. Having previous experience both inside and outside, they were able to make the most of the gorgeous day.
Jackson belaying on Bolt Line
Don after the crux on Bolt Line with Kelly in the back on Beginner’s
We started at the Meadows, working on footwork as we ascended the slabs while staying cool in the shade. After warming up and talking about anchors, we headed over the to the Parking Lot wall for a few more climbs and then finishing the day back at Mom’s Pancake and the testy Lies and Propaganda.
Don at the top of Lies and Propaganda
Jackson pulling the tricky start of Lies
Kelly starting up on Glory Jean’s Devin working his way up Easily Amused
Thanks so much for a wonderful day at Rumney!
It is the middle of the summer rock season and Cannon is in prime condition. Last week I had the opportunity to spend a couple of days up there. The plan is always flexible and it needs to be this way – as routes can be seeping water, other parties are there and weather can change the plan. Our plans were for the VMC but upon arrival the main wall was soaked from the previous days thunderstorms. We opted for two pitches of Union Jack, then Reppy’s to get our day started. By mid day the main wall started to dry and Tom and I were excited for the Lab Wall. We were able to fire 5 pitches. By then it was time to descend. This was the right choice as when we hit the ground the skies opened up in a deluge. Happy to be on the ground we hike out slowly. The change of plans worked out and we had a pretty good sampling of Cannons finer pitches.
Union Jack – Vertigo start.
Tom working the tight finger crack on Union Jack.
Selfie high on Lab Wall.
Tom on the steep headwall pitch of the Lab Wall.
Traverses protected by old bolts are quite exciting for both the leader and follower.
Waterfalls came down the face quickly.
Terry and I have been a bit fixed on the Rumney scene and we both needed a break from the schist. Moby is a long and fun climb and we had not been on this together in some time. Bright sunshine and a warm breeze it was a perfect day for us to be up high on Cannon. The route was completely dry even up into Kurt’s Corner. It was awesome to move fast and light – on a Monday morning.
Terry getting her day going on the lower pitches of Moby Grape.
Triangle roof pitch – jamming through the crux.
Topping out on Kurt’s corner.
Cannon – there are a few more weeks – maybe two months to get out on a dry ice free Cannon. Join me for a tour of this amazing alpine rock playground.
For outdoor families finding new adventures is a continuous project. For the Case family, rock climbing was next on the list. The team of five came to Rumney in hopes of discovering some great new adventure.
The camera’s were ready and the GoPro’s rolling, documenting the adventures for future proof.
Mom, Dad, and the three boys all got in on the action. Taking photos, climbing tall cliffs, and even learning to rappel. Not bad for a families first day climbing outside.
This face says it all. Rock climbing is a great adventure for any family.
Thank you to the Case family for a great day at Rumney Rocks!
I must say I have an absolutely fantastic job. Yes guiding rock, ice, mountains is not for everyone. This is what I chose for a career and it is weeks like this past one that showcase how good a guides work can be.
The people – my guests – these folks are what make each day interesting, engaging, and fun. They all have a choice of who to climb with and I do feel very special that they choose to spend a day in the mountains, on a climb with me.
A huge Thank You is in order to all the guests who climb with me and the guides at Mooney Mountain Guides. I/We do appreciate your choice and climbing with each of you is a blast.
Jerry – aka the force – a driven man who loves to climb. Whether is be the rock, the ice, or big mountain faces in the Alps Jerry loves it all.
Aubrey – trains hard at home and plays hard when he gets out. A busy man running his business but still manages to find the time to get out on the cliffs to refresh the mind.
Charlie – our second season together – Charlie is on his way to becoming a major player on the stone. This week we crushed the routes at Rumney and with three upcoming sessions planned – new personal heights will be gained.
Ryan and Amy – new friends – on the Whitney Gilman.
We enjoyed a fantastic day on Cannon together. Amy was challenged but maintained her focus on the big stone. Ryan and I swapped leads and worked on transitions and systems.
Ryan on lead the final pitch of Whitney Gilman.
A special day for Ryan – Happy Birthday!!!
Thank you all for spending your time with me. This was amazing week of guide work/fun in NH.
Franconia Notch and Echo Lake viewed from the Hounds Hump Ridge. The Eaglet and Flatiron are two of the many granite formations perched high above the valley floor. This area is absolutely amazing with alpine rock climbs of all types. The steep granite faces of the Flatiron, the wide cracks and awkward chimneys on the Eaglet, airy free hanging rappels all test a variety of movement and technical skills.
Aubrey and I were looking for a multi pitch climb of the unusual sort. A climb that we had not been on for a while would be nice and if possible a new pitch or two would top off the day. The Eaglet came to mind as the start to a perfect outing. The weather was good and it even held out for us. In the afternoon we bagged a new route ( for us) on the Flatiron Wall called Salt Packed Pig Sack a beautiful 5.8 climb.
The slab in center named the Flatiron and the free standing spire on right called Eaglet
Jagged formations loom overhead above our belay area.
Manky anchors – as they say buyer beware – we set up our own to be sure.
Chimneys and under cut overhangs – Aubrey in action.
Three points make and anchor – well maybe. These pitons are a piece of NH climbing history.
Aubrey busting a move on the crux of the final pitch.
Aubrey arriving on the summit – just enough room for two.
Me – prepping the airy rappel set up.
The descent from the Eaglet Spire – 180 feet rappel to the base.
Afternoon clouds boiled up around us.
The radar looked great so we opted for a few more pitches on the Flatiron.
Aubrey climbing Salt Packed Pig Sack – leave it up to Jon Sykes and you get a name like this.
The route is 5.8 and is one of the finest face climbs in the Notch. The protection is good and the vantage point is incredible.
Aubrey – very psyched at the top of this amazing pitch.
The approach and descent weave the way throughout this boulder strewn forest.
Hounds Hump Ridge as seen from the bike path.
The visitors center leads folks to the viewing point for the Old Man. We choose a different path one that offered a birds eye view of the entire Franconia Notch.
Thanks to Aubrey – it was an awesome day climbing with you.
Jerry and I met at Whitehorse this past Saturday. It was a pleasant day with bright sunshine, temperatures in the 8o’s and a light breeze. As the weather man on the radio 93.5 in North Conway would say this day is a keeper or otherwise a fifty cent day.
Jerry and the belay station on pitch one.
Todays plan was for Jerry to get back on the sharp end of the rope. He decided on a full length route up the Whitehorse Slabs. I recommended the Beginners route with a few variations as another great introduction to the slabs. Do to the long unprotected areas on this route I would give a word of caution to any beginner leader who is not accustomed to this type of climbing. Jerry and I have been on Whitehorse many times – so he was up for the task.
Pitch three winds its way up the slabs for 190 feet with only a few pieces of protection. Jerry out there in the sea of granite, maintaining a cool head with steady and solid climbing movements.
Jerry leading out on yet another sparcely protected pitch. Seems to be a theme here at Whitehorse.
A watchful leader can get lucky and find solid solution pockets to thread the slings through for bomber protection. It took me a few times on this route before I got lucky and noticed this solution hole went right through.
Here we begin our afternoon session, at the middle of the South Buttress – the Seventh Seal area. Jerry is preparing to crank hard on this lie back hold, then a smear of a high left foot is key to gaining the reach up into the finger locks above.
Another hidden gem of a route.
Loose Lips is a fine three star 10.a which starts on a delicate thin face then follows thin cracks for 140 feet in a rising traverse. Awesome positions and great movements on this one. Hats off to Alain Comeau for finding this route but he gave the secret away in the coffee shop and Jimmy Dunn took the first ascent prize.
Hence the full name Loose Lips Sink Ships!!!
The final moves ease up a bit with climbing on nice finger locks to the chain anchor.
A phenomenal day for Jerry and I – thanks very much.
Aileen wanted to do something fun for Martin’s birthday. The couple has been climbing in the gym since last fall, getting in two or three days a week. Taking there skills to the outdoors seemed like a great time. Up to the Granite State they came. New Hampshire is home to some of the best rock climbing east of the Mississippi River. A great place for an aspiring rock climber to hone his or her skills. Aileen and Martin are off to a great start, and what a great time to start a new adventure than on a birthday. Thank you Aileen and Martin for a great day on the rock. Happy Birthday Martin!
Alex Teixeira, MMG Guide
Do you have tickets?
For the past four or five years now, camp Wildwood has come to climb with Mooney Mountain Guides. Sometimes for a few days, other times for an entire week. We are very lucky to have created such an awesome relationship with Wildwood. The campers that have attended these trips are great kids, and the camp instructors are professional, friendly, and great with kids. It is a real pleasure to spend time with Camp Wildwood.
Technique overpowers strength every time, here a camper gets her feet high to reach the next hold.
MMG and Wildwood schedule these trips far in advance. We cross our fingers in the weeks leading up to the trip that the weather will provide us with beautiful days for climbing. This year, the weather forecasts were not perfect. Despite the forecast, MMG and Wildwood kept it positive, and went climbing anyway.
Rappelling is a vital skill for a climber; here MMG Guide Todd teaches a camper with the added support of a belay from above.
Day one was calling for thunderstorms. We all had our raincoats along with our climbing gear and super sticky 5.10 climbing shoes, ready for anything. By the time we reached the cliff we were going to climb, there were patches of blue sky and intermittent sun. The rock was perfectly dry, and even better, we had Rumney to our selves. Due to the fact that we wanted to get everything in before any rain, the group climbed a ton, and the rain never came. We had a beautiful day of climbing despite the forecast.
Working on technique, crimp session.
In the a.m. of day two we woke to rain, but it looked as tough it was heading east towards Maine and away from central N.H. Again, armed with our positive attitudes we headed up the trail to climb, with the idea that we would climb until we couldn’t. Yet again, the more we climbed the better the weather became. Day two was just as great as day one.
The team out climbing despite the drizzle; MMG Guide Todd looking sharp in his Mammut Rain Jacket
It was the power of the positive attitudes we all came to this trip with that allowed for two great days of rock climbing. It goes to show that climbing is about more than rocks and climbing them. Its about spending time in beautiful places with positive people.
Thanks to MMG Guide Todd, Wildwood Instructors Shannon and Matt, and all the campers.
Alex Teixeira, MMG Guide
This Saturday, Eric and Amy came to Rumney to take a step in their climbing experience: leading.
We started the day in the Meadows on Mom”s Pancake to warm up and talk generally about lead climbing. After, we headed over to the Parking Lot Wall and hopped on Glory Jean’s.
Stopping for a snack and water, we practiced clipping techniques and spoke further about setting anchors before giving A Week With Pete a go.
Eric looked solid with his climbing, rope management, and anchoring.
With a little more time in the day, we hiked up to Dirtigo where we climbed, led, and rappelled, broadening the skill set.
A lap on the Wimpy Gilman was a fine finish to the afternoon.
Thanks Eric and Amy for a fantastic day on the rock!
Todd Goodman MMG