Rumney Rocks

It was Sunday – Game day and our early morning meet up to climb strategy paid off. The Stonemasters aka Peppercom team arrived at Rumney Rocks, all players were fresh and ready to play ball. The goal of this day was Challenge by Choice although there may have been a slight bit of pressure from the viewing players below.

Todays stone to be climbed was the Rumney schist. Our route choices today began with a few technical faces requiring the climbers to execute decisive and delicate footwork. Alignment and balance was also a key component to the necessary smearing of the feet to stick to the stone. After a few of these testy face routes the guns appeared to tackle the steep overhangs – a fast pump was delivered to one arms.

Rumney is loaded with climbing routes – unusual wavy grains of rock, countless tricky bulges, and overhangs loom above in every direction. Rumney Rocks is the northeasts number one sport climbing area.

Our Sendtember game session was a winner!!!

It is fall a prime time to be climbing the stone.

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Chris belaying Steve (aka Repman) up the route named Truth and Advertising.

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Mark sporting a fine set of calfs on Hippos on Parade.

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Sendtember – cobalt blue skies, crisp rock, and vibrate colors!!!

Photo of Steve tackling the steep overhang.

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Our Rookie of the Year – Sean Dog Reddy working the tecky moves high on the wall.

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Deivis – this man has plenty of excess power.

Just to be sure a mid day protein shake fired him up for the sending fest.

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A focused Adel, climbing in fine style, thinking ahead and using good  footwork.

Today he was on the move – Rise and Shine!!!

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Sean – on the last ascent of the day – the game was played and played well.

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Thanks to the team Stonemasters for an amazing day at Rumney.

Art Mooney, Alex Teixeira

Aubrey has taken on a powerful approach and I am quite impressed with his dedication to the game.

Each time he joins me for a climb his goal is to clinic on the difficult routes at Rumney. Aubrey enjoys figuring out the complexities of the movements on steep, technical 5.10’s and 5.11s. All of these routes require the climber to think ahead, to use the power when needed and to conserve the energy for the final push to the chains. Our climbing clinics are lengthy lasting 5 or 6 hours on route after route.

Stacking the odds in your favor.

The preparation for these days should be well thought out. The body must be rested prior to the clinic – fresh and energetic is what one needs to push the body and mind to the limit. Equipment should be suited to the game, shoes are a personal choice but a highly important one.

My personal favorite is the Five Ten Arrowhead with Stealth Rubber.

A new standard in high friction rubber with unbeatable hardness for precise edging and stickiness for friction.

The Five Ten Elite team raves about the Arrowhead’s fit and performance. You will instantly feel the difference in the casually down-turned toe and heel cup that grips without pinching. The upper is a supple, breathable Cowdura™ that molds to the foot.

IMG_2181Aubrey on the ground after a run on Know Ethics 5.10 c.

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Gold bug Main Cliff another tricky 5.10 plus route.

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Steep rock with wild moves up the flaring dihedrals.

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Rumney schist – unusual grainy rock, with good friction, underlings – side pulls and many unusual holds.

Aubrey – great day working the routes with you.

Thank you,

Art Mooney

On approach to the Eaglet and Franconia Crags we were treated to the thick air and humidity on the lush forested trail. Our friends Sandy and John were in for a real treat – first the sweat fest up the steep boulder strewn trail then a multi pitch climb on the exposed granite spire that loomed above us.

The thick air and steep approach is understood for most NH climbers. Our visitors were from Taos New Mexico – the Land of Enchantment  –  from the hot and dry south west with humidity in the 10% range. Yesterday was a very special day – one to showcase New Hampshire our hidden gem of a state. The day was to Access the Goods – a hike to start, a trad route next, Rumney sport pitches later, then the finale a lake side dinner table overlooking Winnipesaukee.

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John, Sandy and Terry packed up and ready for the tour to begin.

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The day was one of the finest in recent weeks.  A KAVU day – klear above visibility unlimited!

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Sandy learning about the chicken wing move and the heel and opposed knee combo to work her way up the chimney.

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Terry in style – moving over the boulder problem.

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Keeping in control – focusing on the guiding during this fun day with our Taos friends.

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John enjoying this fantastic climb and alpine area.

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Gang of Four – on top of the Eaglet Spire!!!

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Summit shot – with the NH Watcher in the background.

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Found this photo online of the Watcher above the Eaglet

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To round out our day – a warm night, the outside table, a fine dinner at Lago in Meredith.

Awesome time – thanks John and Sandy it was so good to see you!

Art & Terry

Sean came to Rumney for a second time. This time was a check in to see if this was a sport he wants to pursue. Wenesday was a hot steamy day so we started in the shade of the forest at the 5.8 crag. A couple of routes were climbed quickly and we decided to climb at Jimmy Cliff for the views and two routes the Nuthatch 5.7 and a quick climb of the Clippidy Do Da.  The check in for Sean included a variety of types of climbs which ranged from cracks, to a chimney, to delicate face routes and the multi pitch slab route. Our goal was becoming achieved – a well rounded day at the Rumney rocks area.

By mid day we decided to recharge so hiked out a took a short drive to the Common Cafe. A short lunch break with a well deserved ice coffee booted us up for the afternoon session at the Meadows Area.

The day was very productive and we climbed 8 pitches on a variety of cliffs. Sean was excited to get back into the sport. It’s now time to train back home in the local gym. The weekend adventures may become frequent activities refreshing the mind and body and Sean want to be ready to climb!

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Thanks sean for a fun day at Rumney Rocks. I hope we climb again soon.

Art Mooney

The transition from indoor climbing to the outdoor climbing world can be a challenge to the mind and to the body. The climbing routes are longer, the holds are permanent, and the routes are more difficult to view. Another view is you are outside on real rock, climbing, with fresh air and sunshine. There are a vast variety of climbs and areas to visit.  Going to new areas to challenging ones self to rise to new heights is in itself is an awesome experience

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Charlie made the journey to Rumney Rocks yesterday. By days end he was a tired but very happy climber.

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Through out the day we climbed a variety of routes. Face and slabs opened up the morning, then by mid day we got after some of the steeper overhanging routes. Charlies day ended with a strong finish on the Arete 5.10C and the Holderness Crack 5.8.

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A healthy lunch for us – hummus and pita bread.

 Eating good food and drinking plenty of water are essential to staying energized during a day at Rumney Rocks.

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Charlie climbing the technical Lies and Propaganda 5.9 and the Holderness Crack 5.8.

Thank you Charlie – it was a very fun day showing you around one of my favorite climbing areas.

Art Mooney

While Tuesday’s rain kept us off the rock, Thursday turned out to be ideal conditions for climbing.  Tom, Virginia, William, and Malcolm made the most of their return to Rumney.  They climbed a number of different routes, even taking a couple of laps of some, and tried out the gri gri, a brake assisted belay device with which they were less familiar.  We worked some slabby routes, like Beginner’s Route and Bolt Line, and moved to steeper rock, like Hippos on Parade and Thou Shalt Not Covet.  The different techniques, and sharper rock, created various challenges throughout the day, but the group handled them well and had a lot of fun.

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Virginia starting up Bolt Line

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William working a more direct start of Bolt Line

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Tom adjusting smoothly to the gri gri

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Malcolm starting up Beginner’s Route

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Tom mantling up on False Modesty

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Malcolm and Virginia resting between climbs

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William working the under cling partway up Hippos on Parade

 

Thanks so much your enthusiasm and energy!

Todd Goodman

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Cody and JoAnne are visiting family in NH. While on the East Coast Cody competed in Atlanta and they managed a few days to climb during the past week.  Cody an ABC climbing team member finished 11th in the USA Sport and Speed Youth Nationals – which is just awesome – Congrats to Cody !!!

Today JoAnne and Cody were very excited to climb outside onsighting sport climbs on the overhanging schist.  We walked right up to a few of the steep lines on the Main Wall and the fun began – today would be an awesome day climbing the best Rumney Sport routes.

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JoAnne and Cody enjoying coolness in the forest.

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 Cody – ABC Team – shoe of choice Sportiva Solution –

IDEAL TERRAIN: overhanging sport routes, bouldering, gym climbing and technical face climbing

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Codys 5 foot height did not  slow him down on any of the reach moves. He has excellent footwork and his light frame allows him to use small crimps and edges to crank on and reach through to the larger resting holds.  Above left Cody moves through the roof on Armed and Dangerous and on the right photo he is working the steep lieback flake on Scene of the Crime. Straight arms, dropped knees, and a  slight dyno move was needed to reach the hidden jug.

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JoAnne onsighting the testy Scene of the Crime.

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Crux area of Scene of Crime.

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Cody using a bit of chalk – hazy, hot and humid has been the norm for NH climbing the past few weeks.

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Much needed rest and refueling before our afternoon session.

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Cody

In addition to many fun climbs we focused on the technical aspects of  climbing outdoors.

– Learning the Ropes

Rope systems, belaying and lowering, tying in, rope management, and cleaning anchors are all components of a sport climbing day at Rumney.

Thanks to Cody and JoAnne it was great to climb and see them both for the day.

Art Mooney