Rock Climbs

Three generations of Cody’s made there way to New Hampshire with a common goal, to meet up on the summit of Mt Washington. Of course there were various obstacles upon the way. For one the NH weather has not been kind – Tuesdays tropical rains kept us off the mountain and yesterday we forced our way to the summit in the continued wind driven rains and 45 degree temperatures. Our mission was accomplished Pop Pop (92 years of age) and son Russ cogged their way to the top to join climbers Steve, Chris and I on the summit of the mountain. The Generation Climb was a success to all.

When Pop Pop puts his mind to something he stays on the task and with this climb his motto was Veni, Vidi, Vici!

 Julius Caeser said this when discribed how/what he did on his campaign. (veni (I came), vidi (I saw), vici (I conquered)

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Three generations – The  Cody family.

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The Cman – a fine inn for the team.

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Tuesday rain kept us inside. The Evolution Rock Gym is a fantastic indoor climbing facility in Concord NH.

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Steve cruising the moves on plastic holds.

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Energetic Chris fires his way to the top.

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We all enjoyed the bouldering walls. Our session here put on a fierce fore arm pump.

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Cog traffic controller – this gent greeted us and help us find our way.

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Pools along the Ammo Trail – this one is aptly Gem Pool.

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Climbing the Ammo trail in the mist. Our ascent was a quick 3 hours – nice work guys.

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Hot drinks and lunch on the top of the world.

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Steve, Chris, Pop Pop, and Russ inside the Mt Washington OBS summit building.

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Quote from Steve below.

Mission accomplished! Despite temps of 35-40, pouring rain and winds of 30 mph, Chris and I successfully summited Mt. Washington for the 10th time. And, this time we were joined by my dad and brother Russ. Conditions were too brutal to snap a pic outside with our elders, though, so here’s one of Chris and me.

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 Steve made a smart mountain decision – due to the wild weather and wet slippery rocks we saved our body and knees on the descent. Here we are joining the masses for a luxurious ride down the mountain on the Cog Railway.

This was a very special trip for me to guide. Much thanks to Steve for putting this all together, To Chris, Pop Pop, and Russ for joining Mooney Mountain Guides on this fantastic mountain adventure.

Art Mooney

Cody and JoAnne are visiting family in NH. While on the East Coast Cody competed in Atlanta and they managed a few days to climb during the past week.  Cody an ABC climbing team member finished 11th in the USA Sport and Speed Youth Nationals – which is just awesome – Congrats to Cody !!!

Today JoAnne and Cody were very excited to climb outside onsighting sport climbs on the overhanging schist.  We walked right up to a few of the steep lines on the Main Wall and the fun began – today would be an awesome day climbing the best Rumney Sport routes.

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JoAnne and Cody enjoying coolness in the forest.

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 Cody – ABC Team – shoe of choice Sportiva Solution –

IDEAL TERRAIN: overhanging sport routes, bouldering, gym climbing and technical face climbing

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Codys 5 foot height did not  slow him down on any of the reach moves. He has excellent footwork and his light frame allows him to use small crimps and edges to crank on and reach through to the larger resting holds.  Above left Cody moves through the roof on Armed and Dangerous and on the right photo he is working the steep lieback flake on Scene of the Crime. Straight arms, dropped knees, and a  slight dyno move was needed to reach the hidden jug.

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JoAnne onsighting the testy Scene of the Crime.

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Crux area of Scene of Crime.

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Cody using a bit of chalk – hazy, hot and humid has been the norm for NH climbing the past few weeks.

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Much needed rest and refueling before our afternoon session.

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Cody

In addition to many fun climbs we focused on the technical aspects of  climbing outdoors.

– Learning the Ropes

Rope systems, belaying and lowering, tying in, rope management, and cleaning anchors are all components of a sport climbing day at Rumney.

Thanks to Cody and JoAnne it was great to climb and see them both for the day.

Art Mooney

Today was a hot and humid day. Not the best weather for sending a project but a good day to work on and refine movements on difficult sport routes. I think of today as a training day, a day to learn the moves, to refine the routes,  to be ready for the return of cool temperatures and crisp rock.

Aubrey and I went to the Five 8 Crag and did just that. We choose a few of the steep, technical routes in the 5.10 and 5.11 range to project on. Progress was made on each line and we will be back in a few weeks to check in again. Each time we return the goal is to push our limit a bit further until we finally can send the route in good style. Who knows how long it will take, we will keep at the goal and have fun along the way.
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Romancing the Stone 5.10c – a steep, technical climb

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Bolt and Run 5.9+ – a tough bulge mid way spits many a climber into the air.

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Aubrey getting ready for the first crux.

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Aubrey enjoying the steep schist at Rumney Rocks.

A great day in the heat of the summer.

Thanks Aubrey

Art Mooney

The Huntington’ Ravine trail is the steepest trail to the alpine gardens area of Mt Washington. Dayton and Andrew had this trail on their mind for some time now. Both had researched the trail with written accounts – descriptions and they even found a You tube video of the climb. Dayton decided this would be his route up to the alpine gardens area then onward to the Lake of the Clouds Hut to spend the night. I was excited for this day – its not often for me to be in the ravine during the summer. A change of the office location would be good and the weather finally had given us a break.

Conditions were good to go!

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Huntington Ravine

IMG_1581 Dayton and Andrew on the approach.

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Talus fields – boulders everywhere up to the wall.

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Andrew – he was truly amazed at this awesome climbing area.

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Summer view of Pinnacle Gully.

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Our first pitch – steep slabs with wet rock made for some interesting movement.

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I used a 100 foot rope to belay Dayton and Andrew. No harness just bowlines around the waist. This kept are backpacks light for the climb.

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Dayton on his toughest climb yet – he loved the experience.

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Clouds and a cool breeze on the alpine gardens.

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We arrived at the Lion head Junction at 2pm.

Dayton and Andrew headed over to Lakes for the night and I descended down to Pinkham.

Great climb in the ravine.

Art Mooney

Hot and steamy has been the weather theme during the past week or so in NH.  Janet and Bill arrived from San Antonio Texas to sample two of New Hampshires finest rock climbing areas – Whitehorse and Cathedral Ledge. MMG guide Erik decided on Whitehorse for the intro to the area. The afternoon session proved to be a good idea as the sun set over the cliff giving some relief from the heat.

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Bill on the smooth crux of the Sliding Board.

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Hanging belay from two bolts on Sliding Board.

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Footwork and body position is key to movement on the slabs.

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View to Echo Lake and the town of North Conway.

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On our second day I decide on the Upper Refuse route at Cathedral. Here is Janet using a finger crack to climb while Bill coaches the upcoming moves.

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Top of Cathedral Ledge – Bill in a wildly exposed position.

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Janet climbing strong on the exit moves to the lookout ledge.

Thanks to Janet and Bill for coming to NH to climb. They both enjoyed amazing weekend rock climbing adventure. Erik and I were excited to be their guides and show them our home climbing areas.

Art Mooney

Mindfulness signifies presence of mind, attentiveness to the present.

Climbing requires a mindful approach for all of your rock and mountain climbs. If a climber loses this presence of mind movements will be sloppy and irregular with the result leading to a botched send, potential tension, hanging on the rope.

Through out this past weekend mindfulness was a common word used by the team members to each other at the busy areas of Rumney Rocks. As a team of 5 rowdy guys on vacation we were using “be mindful” to check our overall presence and minimize impact to others around us.

Another way to view mindful is for each of us move into the higher levels of rock movements and rock climbing techniques a focused presence of mind is required. A focused presence does not appear out of nowhere! A focused presence starts at each of our home areas studying, practicing and training for the rocks and mountains. Whether you live in the city or country area climbers can develop a specific training program to include regular physical training, a balanced diet, and plenty of rest and recovery time. With a regular training program at home one will reach new heights each time they climb.

This weekend the team did an excellent job rock climbing and reaching two high peaks in the area. Now the team is back home – to each of you – enjoy the continued Mindful approach. Train for climbing, be consistent, the pay off is success on the rocks and in the mountains.

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The Team – a day at Rumney Rocks.

  Adel, Sean, Steve.

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Sean on the move up the stone – being belayed by Erik.

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Sean and Steve climbing high above Baker River Valley on the route named Lady and the Tramp.

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 Erik guiding Adel on Clippidy Do Dah.

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The Egyptian Stallion readying himself for Nuthatch at Jimmy Cliff.

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A very pumped up and excited Sean after his completion of Nuthatch.

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The balanced team Adel being belayed by Erik on the climbing route called Bonehead Roof.

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Adel working the lower crux on the Bonehead Roof.

Art Mooney

With rain the night before and a small window of time before Cindy and Ariel headed down south, I wondered if we would be able to find dry rock.  We decided to hike the Bryce Path to the top of Cathedral and see if the rock would dry.

Pausing on the trail.

Pausing on the trail.

Pausing on the trail.

When we arrived at the top,  the mist began to rise.  Cindy and Ariel were excited to head over the Whitehorse and to continue their adventure.

Ariel and Cindy at the top of Cathedral.

Ariel and Cindy at the top of Cathedral.

Ariel and Cindy at the top of Cathedral.

By the time we reached Whitehorse Ledge, the sun began to show its face.  The lower section of the cliff was damp, but the upper part of Sea of Holes looked good.  Though getting off the ground was a little more challenging than usual, Cindy and Ariel moved up the rock smoothly and comfortably, enjoying the views of the valley.  We climbed the first couple of pitches in perfect weather before rappelling down.

Ariel finds a comfy rest.

Ariel finds a comfy rest.

Ariel finds a comfy rest.

Cindy making her way up the pitch.

Cindy making her way up the pitch.

 Cindy making her way up the pitch.

Ariel at the top of pitch one with Cathedral in the background.

Ariel at the top of pitch one with Cathedral in the background.

Ariel at the top of pitch one with Cathedral in the background.

Thanks for your enthusiasm and a great day on the rock!

Todd Goodman

MMG Guide

Thin Air is a classic NH rock climb. The routes follows cracks and ramps up the sheer east facing granite cliffs of Cathedral Ledge. The routes is a first lead for many who climb at the Cathedral Area.

Jerry and I had climbed Funhouse and Upper Refuse a weeks ago which made Thin Air our next objective. We arrived at the base early Saturday morning a readied for the climb. The weather report called for showers but we figured we had a short window of good weather.

Jerry racked up then led the entire route.  The pitches offered interesting climbing challenges, a variety of gear for protection, and creative anchoring building for him. The route was an excellent progression in the exciting new leading area for Jerry.

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Thin Air pitch one.

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The classic pitch – Thin Air Traverse.IMG_1470

Steep climbing towards the upper headwall.

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Jerry working through the upper flakes.

Excellent leading today!!!

Art Mooney

The Whitney Gilman Ridge – a New Hampshire Classic rock climb for sure. This route receives many ascents over each season, at times there can be 4 to 5 parties on the route. One would think the rock is solid and sound but I find that the ridge is a heads up experience that requires precise movements and route finding up the stone. There are many areas that the  climber must tip toe there way through the section to avoid creating rockfall on themselves and others below. Cannon is know for this adventure type of climbing and it is one reason many climbers have high respect for the area.

This was my second time on the route this week and each time I climb the ridge it is a truly amazing and fun experience. Over the years I may very well have logged 75+ ascents. It is through knowing the route this well that allows me to be able to guide guests with confidence up this wild and exposed terrain.

Mike and I met early this morning in Plymouth. Right of the bat he gave me a large package of the homemade cookies his wife Amy had baked for me. This day was shaping up nicely, the good treats and fun times began right away. We drove up 93 to the notch. The 1000 ft talus approach was a full warm up for our bodies, we arrived at the base at 730am and had the route to ourselves. I prefer to climb the ridge in 6 pitches, with each pitch ending on a comfortable ledge. This gives us good communication while climbing and good spots to recover and refuel. The technical part of the route usually take s 4 to 5 hours and today we arrived on the ridge top at 12:30. Mike enjoyed a great climb, full of exposure and three challenging cruxes.

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First views of the wall.

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Our delicious homemade power cookies – Thank you Amy

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Whitney Gilman – Cannon Mountain NH

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On the talus approach – a good pre climb full body warm up.

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Videos, cameras, phones – lets log this event.

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Wide cracks right on the deck – ready, set, go.

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The Twin, a favorite rope system – The Mammut Twilight’s in action.

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Guide Tennies doing the work, keeping me lighter and comfortable with excellent performance.

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Mike managing the ropes.

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Climbing on the spine of the ridge.

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The exposed north wall – looking into the chasm.

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Pitch number six – on top of the world.

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Bring hoodies and bug spray – there were a few around.

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Mike – Great to see you thanks so much.

Art Mooney

Its been a great week to be out in the NH mountains. Finally we are having sunny days with cool breezes and the climbs are mostly dry. Jason and I got lucky with our Cannon plans as our scheduled day was bluebird and crowdless. Getting back on the Whitney Gilman Ridge was excellent with fun climbing in the amazing and exposed location high above Franconia Notch.

This was Jason’s first multi pitch climb and he climbed the entire route in good style. No slips or falls just good solid movements with the occasion crux to ponder. Great prep for Jason who may be heading to the Tetons to climb the Petzolt Ridge on the Grand Teton.

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Whitney Gilman Ridge – Jason.

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Pemi Valley looking south.

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Mid way up the route.

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Splitter granite cracks in places.

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Exposure high o the fourth pitch.

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Fun climbing.

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The final pitch – 600 ft of climbing done.

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Thanks Jason, great to climb with you. Hope to see you this summer.

Art Mooney