It was Sunday – Game day and our early morning meet up to climb strategy paid off. The Stonemasters aka Peppercom team arrived at Rumney Rocks, all players were fresh and ready to play ball. The goal of this day was Challenge by Choice although there may have been a slight bit of pressure from the viewing players below.
Todays stone to be climbed was the Rumney schist. Our route choices today began with a few technical faces requiring the climbers to execute decisive and delicate footwork. Alignment and balance was also a key component to the necessary smearing of the feet to stick to the stone. After a few of these testy face routes the guns appeared to tackle the steep overhangs – a fast pump was delivered to one arms.
Rumney is loaded with climbing routes – unusual wavy grains of rock, countless tricky bulges, and overhangs loom above in every direction. Rumney Rocks is the northeasts number one sport climbing area.
Our Sendtember game session was a winner!!!
It is fall a prime time to be climbing the stone.
Chris belaying Steve (aka Repman) up the route named Truth and Advertising.
Mark sporting a fine set of calfs on Hippos on Parade.
Sendtember – cobalt blue skies, crisp rock, and vibrate colors!!!
Photo of Steve tackling the steep overhang.
Our Rookie of the Year – Sean Dog Reddy working the tecky moves high on the wall.
Deivis – this man has plenty of excess power.
Just to be sure a mid day protein shake fired him up for the sending fest.
A focused Adel, climbing in fine style, thinking ahead and using good footwork.
Today he was on the move – Rise and Shine!!!
Sean – on the last ascent of the day – the game was played and played well.
Thanks to the team Stonemasters for an amazing day at Rumney.
Art Mooney, Alex Teixeira
Aubrey has taken on a powerful approach and I am quite impressed with his dedication to the game.
Each time he joins me for a climb his goal is to clinic on the difficult routes at Rumney. Aubrey enjoys figuring out the complexities of the movements on steep, technical 5.10’s and 5.11s. All of these routes require the climber to think ahead, to use the power when needed and to conserve the energy for the final push to the chains. Our climbing clinics are lengthy lasting 5 or 6 hours on route after route.
Stacking the odds in your favor.
The preparation for these days should be well thought out. The body must be rested prior to the clinic – fresh and energetic is what one needs to push the body and mind to the limit. Equipment should be suited to the game, shoes are a personal choice but a highly important one.
My personal favorite is the Five Ten Arrowhead with Stealth Rubber.
A new standard in high friction rubber with unbeatable hardness for precise edging and stickiness for friction.
The Five Ten Elite team raves about the Arrowhead’s fit and performance. You will instantly feel the difference in the casually down-turned toe and heel cup that grips without pinching. The upper is a supple, breathable Cowdura™ that molds to the foot.
Gold bug Main Cliff another tricky 5.10 plus route.
Steep rock with wild moves up the flaring dihedrals.
Rumney schist – unusual grainy rock, with good friction, underlings – side pulls and many unusual holds.
Aubrey – great day working the routes with you.
On approach to the Eaglet and Franconia Crags we were treated to the thick air and humidity on the lush forested trail. Our friends Sandy and John were in for a real treat – first the sweat fest up the steep boulder strewn trail then a multi pitch climb on the exposed granite spire that loomed above us.
The thick air and steep approach is understood for most NH climbers. Our visitors were from Taos New Mexico – the Land of Enchantment – from the hot and dry south west with humidity in the 10% range. Yesterday was a very special day – one to showcase New Hampshire our hidden gem of a state. The day was to Access the Goods – a hike to start, a trad route next, Rumney sport pitches later, then the finale a lake side dinner table overlooking Winnipesaukee.
John, Sandy and Terry packed up and ready for the tour to begin.
The day was one of the finest in recent weeks. A KAVU day – klear above visibility unlimited!
Sandy learning about the chicken wing move and the heel and opposed knee combo to work her way up the chimney.
Terry in style – moving over the boulder problem.
Keeping in control – focusing on the guiding during this fun day with our Taos friends.
John enjoying this fantastic climb and alpine area.
Gang of Four – on top of the Eaglet Spire!!!
Summit shot – with the NH Watcher in the background.
Found this photo online of the Watcher above the Eaglet
To round out our day – a warm night, the outside table, a fine dinner at Lago in Meredith.
Awesome time – thanks John and Sandy it was so good to see you!
Art & Terry
The transition from indoor climbing to the outdoor climbing world can be a challenge to the mind and to the body. The climbing routes are longer, the holds are permanent, and the routes are more difficult to view. Another view is you are outside on real rock, climbing, with fresh air and sunshine. There are a vast variety of climbs and areas to visit. Going to new areas to challenging ones self to rise to new heights is in itself is an awesome experience
Charlie made the journey to Rumney Rocks yesterday. By days end he was a tired but very happy climber.
Through out the day we climbed a variety of routes. Face and slabs opened up the morning, then by mid day we got after some of the steeper overhanging routes. Charlies day ended with a strong finish on the Arete 5.10C and the Holderness Crack 5.8.
A healthy lunch for us – hummus and pita bread.
Eating good food and drinking plenty of water are essential to staying energized during a day at Rumney Rocks.
Charlie climbing the technical Lies and Propaganda 5.9 and the Holderness Crack 5.8.
Thank you Charlie – it was a very fun day showing you around one of my favorite climbing areas.
Many climbers go to the cliffs seeking freedom. Freedom to go where you want, when you want to. You can choose the level of challenge, style of climb, even where in the world you want to go. There is no greater freedom than leading. Leading a climb requires the climber to not only be strong physically and mentally, but it requires an intimate knowledge of the gear and rope systems used to stay safe while on the cliff.
Nick and Rodger came out with Mooney Mountain Guides on a custom learn to lead course. It is important to have all the essential rope system skills in order to lead safely, and climbing with a professional guide is a great way to learn the most up to date information. Nick and Rodger are strong climbers, spending many days in the gym honing their climbing abilities. There number one goal was to take there skills into the outdoors and climb a cliff such as Cathedral Ledge in New Hampshire.
Nick, Belaying after mock leading pitch two of Fun House, Cathedral Ledge.
Rodger Belaying top of pitch two on Upper Refuse, Cathedral Ledge NH.
Day one of the two day course was spent at Cathedral Ledge where we climbed from bottom to top discussing gear placements, belay systems, cleaning a pitch, mock leading (leading while on a top-rope), building anchors, and rappelling.
Day two was spent at Rumney. Rumney is a sport climbing area, meaning the protection for the leader is already placed in the rock. This allows for the climber to concentrate on the climbing and rope systems and not each individual gear placement. When learning to lead with a professional or highly experienced recreational climber, Rumney is an excellent venue to lead a lot in a short time. Nick and Rodger were able to lead many climbs, the goal to becoming proficient and then go out and climb at Rumney on there own.
Rodger leading, Rumney NH.
Nick leading, Rumney, NH.
Nick and Rodger are now ready to continue the learning on there own. As guides we are constantly learning and tweaking our systems to become better and more skilled climbers and guides. Maybe a custom course in “leading” is right for you.
Thank you Nick and Rodger for two awesome days on the cliff.
The Eaglet Spire is the only free standing column of rock in New Hampshires. The location is stunning, the Spire sits high above Franconia Notch in a magnificent alpine setting.
Team Cody with Erik and I as guides had this one on our to do list of climbs for some time. With the weather in agreement we were ready. The cool night followed by a sunny warm day made the very best climbing conditions – it felt like Sendtember had begun.
Steve aka Repman working the moves on the flaring chimney pitch.
The team on approach to the Eaglet
Bagels and Espresso beans – fuel for the day.
Franconia Notch – a spectacular setting.
Steve on the summit of the Eaglet Spire then on the steep rappel.
On the summit of the Eaglet.
For alpine rock climbing -try the Eaglet Spire!!!
While Tuesday’s rain kept us off the rock, Thursday turned out to be ideal conditions for climbing. Tom, Virginia, William, and Malcolm made the most of their return to Rumney. They climbed a number of different routes, even taking a couple of laps of some, and tried out the gri gri, a brake assisted belay device with which they were less familiar. We worked some slabby routes, like Beginner’s Route and Bolt Line, and moved to steeper rock, like Hippos on Parade and Thou Shalt Not Covet. The different techniques, and sharper rock, created various challenges throughout the day, but the group handled them well and had a lot of fun.
Virginia starting up Bolt Line
William working a more direct start of Bolt Line
Tom adjusting smoothly to the gri gri
Malcolm starting up Beginner’s Route
Tom mantling up on False Modesty
Malcolm and Virginia resting between climbs
William working the under cling partway up Hippos on Parade
Thanks so much your enthusiasm and energy!
Runout sections on nice rock is the Handren Book route description for Slabs Direct 5.7 and Stop if You Dare 5.8.
We arrived at the Whitehorse Ledge parking lot just as a few large groups were headed for the slabs. Erik and I instantly new we would be guiding the lesser traveled routes on the slabs. It was time to keep a cool head and proceed with very steady and stable footwork on the above mentioned routes.
Gang of four all secure – after our wet mossy pitch out of the woods.
Whitehorse is an amazing chuck of solid rock – many of the routes have long run outs on moderate terrain. Always engaging and sometimes very exciting climbing.
Erik leading Chris and Adel up the Slabs Direct.
Steve at the belay after the crux pitch.
Steve enjoying the stone -an amazing day out with the team.
Erik on the upper pitches of Whitehorse.
Good times with the team, another one of many fun trips together.
El Caballaro Blanco – done to the top!!!
Thanks to Steve, Adel, Chris and Erik.
The skies cleared up and we enjoyed a magnificent day at Cathedral. Mike and I spoke a few days before and adjusted our schedules to beat the rain as we need a good day to have the entire family out on the cliffs for some rock climbing fun.
Saturday we met up early and Mike and I climbed Thin Air and the Saigon Pitches at Cathedral. First time here for Mike and he was impressed with the quality of the stone and the fine routes we were climbing. By noon we we done and we headed to Whitehorse to meet up with the family for the rest of the day.
Cathedral ledge from Whitehorse Slabs area.
Fun times on Thin Air, the Prow area middle, and Mike topping out on Still in Saigon.
Oh yeah Cathedral is a blast.
Mike and Amy high up on the stone!!!
Mylee and Jackson back to NH for some rock climbing – 4th year in a row.
Family fun – On the rock with Mooney Mountain Guides.
What an amazing day – getting together with Mike, Amy, Mylee and Jackson.
Thanks very much for climbing in NH again.
Cathedral and Whitehorse Ledges in North Conway Nh are two prize rock climbing areas in New England. For those looking for multi pitch granite cracks and granite slabs climbs these are the spots for an excellent summer rock climbing adventure.
Victoria and Barry joined me on last years summer vacation for a climb on Cannon of the Whitney Gilman Ridge. I will say we all had and excellent time meeting and climbing together. A few weeks back Victoria and I made new plans for a 2013 summer climbing trip. The number one choice was Cathedral Ledge. It has many climbing routes, loaded with steep cracks, and its on the tough side which would make it an engaging experience for all of us.
Cathedral our first choice – since it was a wet morning we chose to drive to the top and hike down to climb the Upper Refuse route. This is usually a good climb in questionable weather, it has moderate climbing, climbs in three short pitches, and the exposure and views are awesome. We topped out just after noon and ate our lunch at the car. For the afternoon I suggested we make a quick drive to the Whitehorse Slabs for another type of climbing – friction and footwork.
By days end we had reached our fill of the stone. It was a nice blend of two of NH prize climbing areas.
Victoria warming up on Upper Refuse.
Victoria and Barry climbing together on Cathedral Ledge.
My Mammut 9.5 Infinity ropes were running smoothly today.
A fine type of Rest & Relaxation – enjoying a NH Rock Climbing Trip.
Topping out on Cathedral – my Five Ten Hueco shoes are awesome – all day comfort, good on the cracks and edges, and excellent on the friction slabs at Whitehorse.
View into North Conway from the top of Cathedral Ledge.
Whitehorse is one big chunk of stone. The smooth slabs are a great place to quickly cover terrain. Using the legs for power but keeping a close eye of the footwork is key to keeping yourself together on the long friction pitches.
Our choice was a fantastic route called the Sliding Board. We climbing four pitches to the headwall then rappelled to the base. The day was full of excitement and adventure, we learned alot , and we refined what we knew.
Great day climbing with Victoria and Barry.