Moby Grape

On any given week you could bet good money that the MMG crew is out at the cliffs introducing folks to climbing and or new climbs to them, as well as working on their own climbing and guiding progression. This past week was no different! Below is a quick collection of updates from the past week. 

Early on in the week Erik got out to Rumney Rocks for a half day of climbing with Jen and Amanda. These gals were visiting the area for the week, coming from Long Island. They’ve started climbing in the gym back home and venturing into Top Rope terrain when they travel. We had a gorgeous day for a sampling of classic pitches at Rumney!

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This weekend Mike got out with the Schildge family. While on vacation in the north country they joined MMG for a day on Square Ledge. This venue has great moderate climbing for a family outing, with what is possibly the best backdrop of any crag in New England.



Earlier on in the week, Art was joined by Jerry “the Gale force” They had a couple of great days swinging leads at Rumney and reclaiming perennial classics on Cannon!



On the personal training front, Alex has headed out to CO to take the Advanced Rock Guide Course through the AMGA, one of many professional development courses MMG guides are involved in this summer. The course, and his acclimatization are taking place in Eldorado Canyon and Lumpy Ridge in the Estes park. Back home, Erik is taking advantage of dry days between the rain to regain strength on some steep sport routes. Most intriguing of these days was at the Groton High Grade Wall, in Marshfield VT.

Alex in CO  

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Erik in VT                                                                                                                                                                                               

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Last summer I had the pleasure of climbing Moby Grape with father-daughter team Steve and Bridget Curley. You can check out the post here: On Saturday Bridget returned to Cannon with her sister Sharon for a fine sampling of granite cracks. Climbing is a family affair with the Curleys! The day was hazy, very hot and humid: more reminescent of mid August than early June. Never the less the motivation was high. We cranked out some true classics: The first few pitches of Duet, the first two of Union Jack, Reppy’s Crack, and Slow and Easy. 

Sharon and Bridget at the base of Duet

 Sharon and Bridget at the base of Duet after cruising its

first few superb pitches.


Sharon launches up the wide first pitch of Union Jack

Bridget sizes up the steep and polished layback crux of Union Jack's second pitch.

Bridget sizes up the steep and polished layback crux of Union Jack’s awesome second pitch 


Hot, tired and happy! Descending Cannon’s massive talus field after a great day. 

Thanks for a great day out, Sharon and Bridget. I look forward to climbing again with you soon!Cheers,

Derek Doucet, MMG

Todays climbing experience on Cannon was fantastic. Jerry and I arrived early and made plans to climb a few classic cracks  along the base of the cliff.  We could not have asked for better weather we climbed all day with blue skies, no wind,  just wearing a t shirt. The rock was completely dry on all the routes we climbed and we viewed parties on Direct direct, Vertigo.

Enjoy it this week if you can!!!


View of the WG Ridge -The Big Wall section – Moby Grape area.

DSCN1496Fast efficient anchor and belay setup.


The crack climbing session started here with the roll 1.5 inch tape


Reppy’s Crack

DSCN1519  Wild pitch the expanding flake on pitch 2 of Union Jack.


Jerry cruising the steep 5.9 corner on Union Jack


Over the weekend there was plenty of active rock fall coming out of the Black Dike area. This was a new area of rubble between the Benedictus and Moby Grape rock climbs.


Large fractured blocks littered the base area here.


Slow and easy getting done!!!


 Duet a Cannon Classic for sure – Yosemite style rock climbing in NH.


Awesome day – thanks Jerry.

Art Mooney 

Wow today was a brisk, windy day on Cannon. Hats, gloves and all the clothing layers we had were used to keep us warm. Reppys Crack was a tough 1st pitch – numb hands and the painful foot jams were exasperated in the 45 degree temps. Kate and I recovered at the belay and push on for the top. We climbed and kept our focus as Moby is a sustained 5.8 route with multiple cruxes throughout the 9 or so pitches. The winds subsided for a few hours helping us out but as we topped out at 2:45 the breeze picked up again. Today was not a day to lounge around on the rock it was a day to move efficiently and get the climbing done. Kate and I kept in cruise mode all the way from the bottom to the parking lot.

It was a truly awesome day on the big cliff.

Thanks to Kate – she has been climbing and training for 4 months – great to see her on Moby Grape and enjoying this alpine day in the White Mountains.

Art Mooney

One of the best parts of my job is that guiding folks up iconic routes such as Cannon’s Moby Grape is like a granite time machine. It takes me straight back to my own first forays up New Hampshire’s most imposing hunk of stone, now more than 20 years and many hundreds of pitches in the past. Through the eyes of our guests, I get to experience the thrill of these early ascents all over again, which is a real gift. It’s all a new and grand adventure to them, and I’m fortunate enough to be a part of it. How cool is that? This past weekend, I shared ropes with father / daughter team Steve and Bridget. It was a stellar trip up the Grape, and brought me right back to my roots as a New England climber.

Here they are, psyched to be over the infamous Finger of Fate pitch. By this point in the route (4 pitches up) we’d left the parties below us well behind and enjoyed a nice break and some lunch on this spacious ledge. It was hot, but a pleasant breeze made it very enjoyable.

 Looking down at the talus 6 pitches below.  Cannon is big. Some of those blocks below are bigger than my car!

Bridget cruising the classic dihedral of the Kurt’s Corner finish. This aesthetic left facing corner adds another clean 5.7 pitch with thrilling position to an already fine route.

On top by 2:00. Very strong work from the father/daughter team!

Thanks for letting me be a part of the adventure, Steve and Bridget. I had a blast. Hope to see you both on the rock again soon!

Derek Doucet, MMG