Art Mooney

Marc and I met up last week to get two awesome days of climbing.

Thursday was a great cragging day at Rumney Rocks.  We climbed 8 pitches in all.  We started the day high on the hill with Lonesome Dove, Junko and several other climbs in the area. High quality schist!   For the afternoon we headed down to climb the nice longer pitches on the left side of the main cliff area. Metamorphosis, Sesame Street, and a few others.
We ended the day with a brief multi-pitch/trad lesson including anchors, transitions, gear placement and removal.
On Friday we met in Franconia Notch for an ascent of the classic Whitney-Gilman ridge.
We had fantastic conditions with blue skies and a fairly brisk wind keeping the bugs to a minimum.  We were very happy to have our windbreakers for the second half of the day!
We moved right along in our approach and climb and included the 5.8 handcrack variation. The 5.8 variation finishes with an overhanging 5.6 headwall several hundred feet above the Black Dike.  Exciting for the leader and the second!
We enjoyed a casual lunch and water at the last belay.  (The climb offers excellent and comfortable belay ledges)


Finishing the first pitch

Marc warming up on pitch one.

Top of the first pitch

Marc – top of first pitch.

Exciting traverse to the anchor

Exciting traverse to the belay anchor.

Marc finishing off the pipe pitch

Marc high over the Black Dike area on the Pipe pitch.

Mark T at the top of WG

Marc at the top of the Whitney Gilman!!!

Wind picking up in the afternoon

It was a really nice 2 days of cragging.   Sunny and 70s is hard to beat.  Marc is a gentleman and excellent company.   Thanks very much for coming down to NH and climbing.  Best of luck to you!
Steven Cooney
MMG Guide

This Saturday, Eric and Amy came to Rumney to take a step in their climbing experience: leading.

We started the day in the Meadows on Mom”s Pancake to warm up and talk generally about lead climbing.   After, we headed over to the Parking Lot Wall and hopped on Glory Jean’s.

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Stopping for a snack and water, we practiced clipping techniques and spoke further about setting anchors before giving A Week With Pete a go.

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Eric looked solid with his climbing, rope management, and anchoring.

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With a little more time in the day, we hiked up to Dirtigo where we climbed, led, and rappelled, broadening the skill set.

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A lap on the Wimpy Gilman was a fine finish to the afternoon.

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Thanks Eric and Amy for a fantastic day on the rock!

Todd Goodman MMG

Wow – I must say Laura was spot on when she decided to give the gift of climbing outside to Issac. Issac was pumped to climb and eager to learn the skills to take climbing to a new and quite different level. Both Laura and Issac have climbed mostly indoors and both wanted to learn the proper techniques to get on the outdoor climbing track. Rumney rocks is the perfect place for sport climbers to make this transition. This day was planned to happen three weeks ago but weather kept us off the rock – finally we had a clear an sunny day – perfect for outdoor climbing.


Issac and Laura – having a blast – all day long!!!


Laura getting a feel for the stone and pushing herself to new heights.


Issac in good form on the tricky traverse moves on Bolt Line!!!

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The entire day was full on learning – both Laura and Issac set the routes up, belayed each other and then cleaned the routes. Nice job to both of them!


Issac’s new Petzl rope – silky and smooth.


Fun times at Rumney Rocks.


A very happy Laura – she climbed more routes than any of her other trips – fantastic!!!

Thanks to Laura and Issac.

I hope to climb with you again.

Art Mooney

It was a pleasure to climb with Mike and Luke today at Cathedral and Whitehorse Cliffs. Both these guys are experienced climbers which made our day flow very fluidly. We started at Whitehorse to regain our footwork (precise movements) then we ventured over to Cathedral to play on two crack lines. By days end I felt we found the Beat as we ended up climbing 10+ pitches and took the final route to the top.


Early morning at a wet Whitehorse. I spied a dry line that went directly up to the bolts on the third pitch of Sliding Board.


Luke climbing fast and light.


Mike revisiting his old playground.


Our highpoint on Whitehorse. We descended from here – three rappels landed us on the ground.


The country club scene on the approach.


Time for some steep climbing – here is Luke on pitch one of Fun House.


Mike on the cracks and corners of Fun House.


The climbing is varied and fun – Fun House to Black Lung is a great link up to the top.


Luke flying high over the Mt Washington Valley.


Along with the climbing a few new techniques were getting attention. Mike is working on the butterfly coil.

Thanks to Mike and Luke for this day – its was a privilege to climb with both of you. I look forward to seeing you gain soon.

Art Mooney

Ridge running has always been one of my favorite workout activities. Putting on the trail shoes, carrying a small pack with the essentials, and moving light and fast gives a feeling of a free spirit in the mountains. Lightweight travel and quick moves over boulder strewn trails leave the miles behind as one runs along the trails and ridges in the high peaks.

The Whitney Gilman Ridge is another type of ridge running adventure. The vertical 5th class kind! The game is played in a similar way, lightweight gear, efficient movements, and quick transitions all add up to topping out on the ridge in a short amount of time. The Whitney Gilman Ridge route is positioned along an exposed knife edge of stone, the route wanders back and forth with moments of exceptional exposure over the dark north wall. The route is somewhat committing as descending is  not an easy task – there is certainly an excitement factor on this climb. This is Cannon and getting to the top in a timely way is the common goal.


The Whitney Gilman – 600ft of technical 5th class climbing.

IMG_3106 Shaping up to be a fine day on the stone.


Bill – happy to be back on Cannon!!!


Today we had a slight breeze and light cloud cover – this kept conditions quite nice on this hazy, hot, and humid day.

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Team Mammut in action – Grib coming over the exposed pipe pitch, great vistas of the Lafayette Ridge from this spacious belay ledge, and Grib on the final corner pitch.


Pitch 5 has a steep corner system – excellent climbing high on Cannon.


The pitch 5 exposed belay station perch.


 Great times – back in action on Cannon.


What a fantastic climbing area – right in our backyard of NH.

Cannon Mountain!!!

Art Mooney

The Flatirons dominant the skyline high above Boulder on the slopes of the Rockies. These unusual formations of stone are numbered 1,2,3 and all are climbed regularly by Boulderites and visiting climbers.


Steve arrived in town and Flatiron number 1 was our first objective. Our choice of routes today weaved up the center of the wall and offered over 1 thousand feet of mindful movements in 10 pitches of varied roped climbing.


Steve giving the thumbs up to the Flatiron. There would be no wrinkles on this ascent – we pressed onward to the base.

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Special times – breaking in the new rope.

This Mammut Revelation rope is a beauty and will be treated with care.

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Today we went for comfort and performance and both of us chose to wear our new Five Ten – Guide Tennis shoes. These shoes went right into action, sticking to the stone. A great choice of climbing footwear for the moderate routes, much more than the so called approach shoe.


Learning the ropes, clove hitches, belays techniques and protection.


At the top of the face is an alpine style ridge. Here Steve is breaking down the anchor ready for the summit bid.


Our early start paid off big. The early morning approach was quiet and peaceful then the masses of climbers and hikers arrived. No worries for us we were on top for the day.


High above Boulders open space lands.


First Flatiron climbed, next stop Eldorado Canyon.

Great warm up day for Steve and I – let the fun times continue!!!

 Art Mooney

A big shout out is in store for the MMG guides.

Thanks very much for attending the spring training day this season. This day is where and when the MMG Guide team gets together to Raise the Bar. By reviewing our practices, discussing new techniques, lots of hands on with new and previous skills, and general fun times cragging on the rocks the team comes together and tightens up the MMG guiding operation.


L to R: Derrek Anderson, Phil Thalheimer,Derek Doucet,Steve Cooney, Alex Teixeira, Todd Goodman, and Mike Leathem

Missing – not forgotten are: Erik Thatcher, Jim Gagne, Matt Shove.

Our Sponsors Mammut, Julbo, Five Ten – came through again – in a big way!!!

Check out these excellent products.


Mammut Kala Patter Tech Jacket


Julbo Stunt Eyewear


Five Ten – The Guide Tennie


On approach to Jimmy Cliff area.


Discussing the descent  technique options.

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MMG’s team – we have been together for many years which says a lot.

Good friends, good times = good guiding and instruction.

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The Gi Gi and the Connecticut Hitch


Phil managing the station and transitioning to the descent.

Great day getting together – Thank you all.

Art Mooney

Yesterday was an absolutely stellar day of the stone. Brilliant sunshine, a light breeze, crisp dry rock gave Jerry and I the go ahead for sports action on Whitehorse. The Julbo Stunt glasses were on board to keep the glare out of my eyes – my guide job for the day was to assist Jerry in leading the way to the top. I needed a good visual from below to point out a few key placements on the sparsely protected route – a Whitehorse specialty.


Pitch one starting off the launch pad – easy slabs lead to the anchor 150 feet up and right.


Jerry keeping his focus on the typical long run outs on moderate terrain.


Simple anchors on the bolted station were solid and fast to set and remove.


Taking this place for Granted – never – a special area for all to enjoy.

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BD Cams placed in good solid rock, surface area excellent and direction of pull considered.


Crystal pocket belay area.


Headed out to Lunch ledge – long runout on easy terrain leads to great gear before the steep climbing.


Mammut Twilight Ropes – perfect for this climb. Light system, allows options for rappels, slides easily through belay devices. A first choice of mine for multi pitch routes.

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Jerry and I on top – enjoying views on the valley and Mt Washington in the distance.

Mammut – Innovative Rock and Alpine equipment  for all our climbs.

 Julbo – The World needs your vision!!!

Art Mooney

Troop 1 from Northboro Mass climbed at Rumney Rocks this past Saturday. The day was full of excitement and challenges. After our morning skills session the Scouts were put to the rocks of Rumney. Tying knots, climbing, belaying and lowering skills were practiced in full force with three groups at various areas.

Check out these fun photos of the day.



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Thanks to all the Scouts and leaders.

The MMG staff of guides – Art, Steve, Phil

Kelly and Bob ventured north from Philadelphia in hopes of climbing in North Conway this Memorial Day weekend; however, the storms soaked the cliffs.  With Whitehorse running with water, they drove over to Rumney and found some dry rock, sunny weather, and stellar routes.

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Kelly working her way up Beginner’s Route.


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Bob nearing the top with someone starting up Bolt Line.

After warming up and getting their feet underneath them, we headed over to the Parking Lot Wall to find that Glory Jeans was open.  We were able to climb a little more before the skies opened up with an afternoon shower.

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Bob on the ledge ready to step over the void.


Thanks to Kelly and Bob for their positive energy and enthusiasm!


Todd Goodman

MMG Guide