Terry and I climbed for two days at the Gunks. Our timing could not have been better, cool crisp mornings led to warmer temps and fine rock climbing by mid day. We climbed multiple routes in the Trapps mostly repeats but fun none the less. The steep overhangs can be quite challenging but once you understand the rock you realize there will be a jug of a hold coming up very soon.
Terry on the Son of Easy O.
The Trapps viewed from the drive in – over a mile of routes with the carriage road along the base for easy access.
Terry on the classic climb CCK – headed for the overhangs on the direct finish.
Another great route called Strickly from Nowhere.
I am already looking forward to our next trip here its an amazing place to climb.
Here we are at the beginning of The American Mountain Guides Rock guide course in Red Rocks. This is a ten day program designed to meet the needs of aspiring guides who wish to further their skills and guide high end longer more complex Grade 3 to 5 routes. Our itinerary is quite full with multiple days of guided climbs, additional clinics on short rope work, and aspirant testing with movement skills and rescue components. It is the middle of the course and we have just had a one day break due to rain, tomorrow we start up again for five days of multi pitch routes in the canyons of Red Rocks.
First day morning meeting at Red Springs Picnic Area.
Derek on the Fox a varied climb from fingers to offwidth with a stiff rating of 5.10+.
Derek leading the team midway on Group Therapy.
Jim cruising the final pitch of Purblind Pillar.
We meet this Ringtail Cat as we prepped for our second route at Angel Food Wall.
Yes it rains in the desert and cold weather usually follows. We ending our day early in Oak Creek canyon.
Today we rested to give the cliff a chance to dry out. It was a unplanned but welcomed break from the group.
Red Rocks Nevada! This week was one ‘Motha’ of a shindig. We climbed everything from single pitch sport and traditional routes to big multi-pitch classics. Team Peppercom, Steve, Deivis, and Chris, plus Egyptian First Ascentionist, “Adel the Egyptian Stallion” joined us for 7 days of sun and fun. Las Vegas certainly delivers with perfect weather, and great climbing. The night life is pretty respectable as well. Hats off to the whole gang for their awesome performance!
Adel, the “Egyptian Stallion” topless in Las Vegas.
Sculpted backs, and one of many “First Egyptian Ascents” for Adel
Chris and Deivis showing off their battle wounds. Deivis, with the mummified fingers, is only moments away from a “Snorefest” at the first pitch belay on Geronimo.
Chris, rockin’ the Mammut backpack and jacket, on the last pitch of Geronimo!
Thank you for this fantastic experience.
Matt Ritter MMG Guide
Red Rocks has it all. Cracks galore all sizes and shapes, multi pitch face climbs up bullet hard sandstone, and Calico Hills a sport climbing mecca. Jerry and I have been sampling some of the best routes, one I would highly recommend is Ginger Cracks. Today we rose early with plans to be first on the route – this plan delivered we arrived and had a few moments to ourselves.
Ginger Cracks is a 7 pitch route up the northeast side of a pillar in Juniper Canyon. The route is steep and sustained with crack and delicate face climbing. This was a prize route that Jerry and I planned to climb together. We enjoyed the spectacular setting climbing high above the desert floor.
Our morning approach to Ginger Cracks.
The first pitch delivers a punch, jerry enters the wide part.
Jerry sorting out the thoughtful face climbing on pitch 2.
Roofs and cracks leading up to the crux pitch.
Success we climbed clean through the crux pitch.
The final pitch climbs the exposed arete high above the valley.
End of the day view of the Ginger Buttress.
It was a great day climbing with Jerry.
Mammut is 150 years old. To celebrate Bill (Mammut USA CEO) selected a premier team of outdoor enthusiasts from all over the US to climb NH’s most beautiful mountain. To prepare for this climb of Mt Washington the team was equipped with the new Mammut Peaks Collection clothing and equipment. This Mammut team experienced challenge and excitement on a fun adventure climbing to the summit. We all worked together with Mammut’s essential values in mind – solidarity and teamwork.
Matt (MMG Guide) and Bill (Mammut USA CEO) enjoying a rest break at Gem Pool.
Dave joined us from Spokane. He is the general manager of Mountain Gear.
Art and Mike getting geared up for the steep section of the Ammo Trail.
Maureen – Paradox Ambassador from Vermont.
R D joined us from Colorado – Legal Council for the Access Fund .
MMG guide and our event photographer Jim Gagne. A side note – Jim is the first climber in NH to climb all of the big 8 summits.
Kristen – Backpacker Magazine Gear Editor.
Mike and Suzana – Paradox Sports
The NH 150 Peaks Team wearing the new Mammut Peaks Collection pro shell, pants and boots.
It was truly an unforgettable experience on the mountain.
Thanks to Mammut and the team.
Laurie had her first taste of the ice today and she was full of smiles. We went to Willey’s and had the place to ourselves for most of the day. Conditions were excellent, mostly soft ice with some areas plastered with a few inches from last nights squall. We spent a few hours at the base area getting comfortable on knots, belays techniques, and anchoring systems. Then it was time to climb and climb we did. Our first route went upper the plum center line for four pitches. We topped out at 1 pm. Plenty of time for a second route up the felt side. It was a great day on the ice with Laurie, we had fun and she was challenged.
Laurie with Willeys Slide behind.
Laurie learning the systems, here she is placing an ice screw for our first anchor.
Laurie belaying me on our first pitch.
Getting into the swing using a very lightweight Petzl Quark Ice Tool.
Smiles as we topped out high on Mt Willey.
Red cheeks – a sign of a good winter day.
Thanks to Laurie for today, let’s get out and climb again soon.
Steve and I had unfinished business with this climb. Last season we wallowed in the snow up to our chests just to reach the base of the climb. We climb a few pitches but decide to let the snow settle out.
Today we were back for more. This time the snow conditions were manageable and the ice was phat. We climbed both Lower and Upper Hitchcock and topped out on Willard.
Today was a truly spectacular day in the mountains.
Steve getting warmed up on a cold day.
Upper Hitchcock loaded with ice.
The view keeps getting better as we climb higher.
The final top out into the forest.
The top of Mt Willard – One of the better view points in the White Mountains.
Thanks to Steve for a great time in the mountains.
Where should we climb today -its 45 degrees? Lets see whats going on at Trollville? Aubrey, Matt and I teamed up for a threesome and drove over to Jackson. NEClimbs said mostly out of shape but we were looking for mixed lines not ice. On our approach we viewed the main part of the cliff which was running with water and the ice looked like slush. We kept our focus and went over to the right side in the shade and found four fantastic lines two ice and two mixed. This 50 foot cliff can put on the pump quickly and we were all quite satisfied by days end.
Aubrey linking a few rock moves onto a short overhang of ice.
Matt leading up our first mixed line M5 (sure).
Aubrey belaying Matt on the M7+
Steel meets the stone.
Aubrey keeping in balance with a solid back step.
It was great for Aubrey and I to get out and climb with Matt. We were mixing it up in more than one way.
This past December Paul and I climbed the Black Dike. Fresh from a Montana ice climbing trip, Paul crushed the route in fine style. Paul returned this President’s Day weekend for a New Hampshire ice sample platter.
The first thing we climbed was the steep left wall of the Trestle Gully at Mt. Willard. This pitch was steep and required delicacy.
Everything on the south face was baked out but Gully 2.5 looked pretty good. Here’s Paul at the top of that climb. We then climbed Cinema Gully, a classic multi-pitch route that leads one to the upper wall of Mt. Willard which hosts many classic routes such as East Face Slab Right.
Day 2 found us at Frankenstein, where we were able to climb Hobbit Couloir, Smear, Pegasus Rock Finish, and Dracula. Paul on Smear.
For Day 3 we visited Kinsman Notch, a wonderful location for single pitch climbs of varying difficulty. Paul got to work on his leading skills, anchor building, belay management, lowering a second, and rappelling.
We also got the chance to climb some difficult ice and mixed routes, such as Hanging by a Moment and The Beast.
Thanks for a great 3 days on the ice.
Matt Ritter MMG Guide
Cathedral Ledge NH is home to the finest ice routes in the area. Jerry and I climbed two of these ice routes in good style – which means sending no falls. Repentance is a must do in the area just see for yourself – the spectacular photo below in todays early morning light. Our plans were to meet early hoping to be the first, we arrived at 6:30 am and the game was ours. Shortly after two local climbers arrived and waited till we topped out to start.
The route is in great shape, even with the missing piece on the crux column. It has received lots of traffic making it easy to draft the pick holes and rebore some screws which helped us move quickly. All the pitches are steep and technical which keep one highly focused.
We topped out early giving the green light to parties waiting below. An awesome day at Cathedral with Jerry.
First sun on Repentance.
Steep warm up on pitch 1.
Mammut Twilight ropes and Pack along with my preferred belay device the Gi Gi.
Jerry mixing it up on pitch 2.
The final move surmount this chockstone. The question seems to be do you go left or right.
Jerry working through the moves on the left side.
Another steep vein of ice is Super Goofers. A NEI 5- that packs a punch.
Turf, rock climbing and tree hugging helps one complete Super Goofers.
It as a historic day for us, two difficult ice routes completed.
Thanks to Jerry.