Wow today was a brisk, windy day on Cannon. Hats, gloves and all the clothing layers we had were used to keep us warm. Reppys Crack was a tough 1st pitch – numb hands and the painful foot jams were exasperated in the 45 degree temps. Kate and I recovered at the belay and push on for the top. We climbed and kept our focus as Moby is a sustained 5.8 route with multiple cruxes throughout the 9 or so pitches. The winds subsided for a few hours helping us out but as we topped out at 2:45 the breeze picked up again. Today was not a day to lounge around on the rock it was a day to move efficiently and get the climbing done. Kate and I kept in cruise mode all the way from the bottom to the parking lot.
It was a truly awesome day on the big cliff.
Thanks to Kate – she has been climbing and training for 4 months – great to see her on Moby Grape and enjoying this alpine day in the White Mountains.
Whitney Gilman Ridge NH.
Looking down the steep 5.8 variation.
MMG Guide Stephen on Cannon.
Wild exposure on the top pitch of the route.
Thank you Dan for a really great adventure .
This day on Cannon was different. I was being guided with Ken by MMG Guide Matt Ritter. You see Matt is getting prepped for his Rock Instructor Exam and he is looking for mileage on a variety of routes. Ken and I teamed up for a two to one ratio on a Cannon Classic – The Whitney Gilman Ridge.
In this role I was able to take a few different photos from below. What a great day, the team, the weather and no crowds. As you can see Cannon is a great place to be during the fall climbing season.
Suns out guns out.
Pitch One the Whitney Gilman.
Ken enjoying Cannon the alpine playground.
The crux pitch.
Cannon one of my favorite climbing areas for sure.
Thanks to Ken and Matt for a great day.
Mike has enjoyed climbing and skiing with MMG for the past eight years. Three years ago he traveled up to Conway with his family to try out rock climbing. Whitehorse was the place to begin with long sweeping slabs that lead to beautiful views of the Mt Washington Valley.
Now every year Jackson and Mylee take it a bit higher. MIleage is the key with climbing and once you become comfortable its much easier to climb to new heights. You will see by the photos Jackson and Mylee are having fun on these wonderful rock routes at Whitehorse Ledge inNorth Conway NH.
Mylee climbing quickly to the top!
Mike and Jackson working the moves together.
You go girl its a figure of eight.
Jackson headed up higher.
Made it to the top!!!
Great climb for Jackson and Mike.
Belay ledges offer a nice break.
Mike and Jackson having a good time.
It is great to be the teacher and watching the kids climb. Each season we do something a bit different with slightly more challenge. Being sure to keep it fun for all.
Thanks to Mike, Amy, Mylee and Jackson for climbing with me.
Aubrey and I worked out on the cracks at Cathedrals North End Area yesterday. It was a comfortable place to be as we climbed mostly in the shade allowing us to escape the sun and heat of the day. The north end is a perfect area to hone the crack climbing skills with multiple steep crack routes in the 5.9 to 5.10 range.
By mid day we looked up and decided to take a line to the top. We scrambled up through some rough terrain to reach a route called the Liger 5.10. Its a steep corner crack that ends with finger locks through a steep bulge. Scrappy and dirty it was but a fine outing none the less.
Another great climbing day for Aubrey and I at Cathedral Ledge.
Aubrey warming up on the tough Kiddy Crack.
Steep finger locks on Birds Nest.
Aubrey gaining on the route They Died Laughing.
The slab start to The Liger.
Steep finger jams around the turf and weeds – A Cathedral gem.
Aubrey reaching the final hand jam to gain the sloping ledge.
Trying out Mammuts new El Cap Helmet. Light with a great fit.
Thanks Aubrey for a fine day.
Each summer I travel to Acadia to refresh the mind and body. There is something about the ocean, the cool air, great hiking and climbing that puts it all together and re-energizes the body.
This past weekend after a long day on Mt Katahdin, Steve, Chris, Mark, Matt and I drove down east to Bar Harbor. We headed right out to the cliffs and sampled a few of the classic granite crack climbs on the Precipice. We kept our pace through two days and climbed on a variety of routes and mountain hikes. In the evenings we enjoyed the fine eateries in the seaside town of Bar Harbor.
This vacation combination of climbing on Katahdin and Acadia is a great way to replenish the mind and body. Thanks to the Cody team for joining MMG and leaving work and the mid summers heat behind for a weekend of fun and excitement.
Chris and I at Otter Cliffs.
Steep ladders on the Precipice Trail.
Approaching the sea cliffs at Otter.
Steve in training – never enough for this guy.
Granite steps and paths lead the way.
Old Town a classic climb on the South Wall.
Chris cruising up the stone.
Acadia trails lined with wrought iron rails.
Another great adventure with Mooney Mountain Guides and the Cody team.
Thanks very much Steve, Chris, Mark it was a blast spending the weekend together.
Art Mooney – Matt Ritter
Last Friday I had the privilege to climb with Caren, Rich, Emily, and Nicole for the second time. It had been a full year since we had climbed together and I already look forward to next year.
Spending the day with this excited, high energy family is tons of fun. We enjoyed a half day at “Upper Vader”
We sampled climbs ranging from 5.4-5.8 in a supportive and always hilarious atmosphere.
Friday was a hot sunny day though we managed to stay in the shade and enjoy cheddar cheese pretzels and Gatorade between climbs.
Thanks to the whole family for a super fun day! Enjoy the rest of Summer! See you next season!
One of the best parts of my job is that guiding folks up iconic routes such as Cannon’s Moby Grape is like a granite time machine. It takes me straight back to my own first forays up New Hampshire’s most imposing hunk of stone, now more than 20 years and many hundreds of pitches in the past. Through the eyes of our guests, I get to experience the thrill of these early ascents all over again, which is a real gift. It’s all a new and grand adventure to them, and I’m fortunate enough to be a part of it. How cool is that? This past weekend, I shared ropes with father / daughter team Steve and Bridget. It was a stellar trip up the Grape, and brought me right back to my roots as a New England climber.
Here they are, psyched to be over the infamous Finger of Fate pitch. By this point in the route (4 pitches up) we’d left the parties below us well behind and enjoyed a nice break and some lunch on this spacious ledge. It was hot, but a pleasant breeze made it very enjoyable.
Bridget cruising the classic dihedral of the Kurt’s Corner finish. This aesthetic left facing corner adds another clean 5.7 pitch with thrilling position to an already fine route.
Thanks for letting me be a part of the adventure, Steve and Bridget. I had a blast. Hope to see you both on the rock again soon!
Derek Doucet, MMG
Father and Daughter team, Bob and Lisa joined us for a half day of sport climbing in Rumney this Wednesday. We headed for the right side of the Venus Wall to climb in the shady and cool Dirtigo Gulley. We spent the day here learning to belay, lower, and tie the rope while we climbed some of the best moderate pitches in the Baker River Valley.
We warmed up on Mowgli Grape, and Dirtigo. These are two super-classic climbs with great views from the top.
After a warmup we needed a little more challenge so we tried our hand at the testy White Knee Gill Man Ridge. A climb that requires balance ant the use of the “smear” technique. Bob and Lisa both performed beautifully on this striking feature.
To wrap up the day we climbed a very tough 5.7 known as Preppy’s Crack. This is a footwork intensive and delicate climb. In order to succeed one must balance and dance from hold to hold. Both Bob and Lisa got to the top in fine style.
Lisa on the belay and Bob about to fire the route!
Lisa stylin’ the moves on “The Ridge”
Bob high on the sunny wall.
Bob now enjoying the shade on Dirtago.
Thanks to Bob and Lisa for a great half day! I hope Y’all enjoyed the rest of the day, and found some good swimming.
Vivek and I teamed up on Saturday for a cragging day at Cannon Cliff. Though Cannon is known for hosting some of the best alpine multi-pitch climbing in the east, this thousand foot dome of exfoliating granite is also home to a slue of one and two pitch classics.
We started out on Slow and Easy, a wonderful 5.8 arching crack climb.
Then we went over to the Duet Buttress where we enjoyed two pitches of super classy 5.7 climbing. Pitch one laybacks, jams, and stems up a beautiful corner system. Pitch two starts off with a tough move off the belay followed by some enjoyable off-width on great rock.
We then headed to the Conn Buttress, home to the formidable and famous Reppy’s Crack, one of the purest, clean hand cracks in the east. This pitch is not to be underestimated, as it is burly, and puts a hurt on the ankles if one does not move with assertiveness
To finish off the already full day, we ran a lap on Sinister Satisfaction. The name says it all for this one. Put your friends on this climb and tell them it is 5.8. Soon you too will be giggling with Sinister Satisfaction as they make rounded insecure layback moves that feel a little more like 5.9.
Another great day on the Big Cliff.
We didn’t quite get our fill on Saturday so we returned the next day with Abhinav to climb the Whitney Gillman Ridge. It was a beautiful and very windy day. Just hearing each other was a challenge but we were graced with a mosquito and black flyless climb. We were first in line for the route despite our long winded philosophical conversation on the approach. We made good time to the top and enjoyed easy chatter and each other’s presence on the descent.