Monthly Archives: September 2014

Mammut has produced top quality climbing ropes for almost 150 years!!!


The  set of Revelation ropes pictured  are my personal top choice of ropes for high end multi pitch rock or ice routes. I have used these ropes for well over ten years and my reasons are clear – the Revelation is a high quality lightweight rope with outstanding handling for climbing and belaying. The super dry treatment has a couple of benefits.  The ropes are resistant to dirt and water and the slick finish provides exceptional glide and friction properties on the rock. When used as a set – two of these ropes slide with ease through the direct belay device with two climbers in action.

These Mammut Ropes have many features that set them as a leader in the industry and make a big difference for climbers and guides on the rock, ice and alpine routes.


 Colorful sheath twines of the Revelation in Ocean and Duodess.


Revelations in action – two ropes used like one.


Grib and Bill climbing Kurts Corner – I am using a direct belay  with a self locking belay plate off the master point of the anchor.  This allows the two climbers to move together – efficiency and speed is achieved over a long route.


Cannon Cliff – New Hampshire.

 Cannon is a high end alpine rock and ice climbing area which stands alone in Franconia Notch, New Hampshire. Cannon is known for longer complex multi pitch routes, unpredictable fractured rock and unstable mountain weather. This adds up to high end excitement in the mountains.


Finger of Fate – the above shark fin feature is hanging on by a thread!!!

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Bill, Grib and I climbed the Whitney Gilman last spring. We had an such an amazing day on Cannon we planned this climbing trip – the  ascent of Moby Grape.

Moby Grape 5.8 – Grade III

May seem like a simple undertaking when viewed from the guide book.

Actually Moby Grape is one of the longest 5.8 crack routes in the area. There are many difficult cruxes, the route finding is complex, and the length just keep on coming. Nine pitches of quality climbing set you on top of the world – views below of the Pemi Valley and across to the summit of Lafayette.


The striking Whitney Gilman Ridge.


Bill climbing the sharp cracks leading up to the stout triangle roof moves.

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Committed to the Core

Mammut USA – – Bill (CEO) and Gribbin (Marketing Manager) at work in the mountains.


Personally I am very proud to be included as one of the sponsored Mammut Athletes and my commitment stands strong. For over ten years I have put Mammut products to the test at my work while guiding and at play pushing the grades climbing on the rock and ice routes. The exceptional quality, innovative design, functionality have made these clothing and technical products stand out as the best in the industry.

Yesterday was a blast – it was a pleasure to get out and climb with Bill and Grib. Another day is in the works for the ice – which is coming fast. Yesterdays cool morning showed a taste to come of the flavor of winter.

Much Thanks to Bill and Grib for believing in Mooney Mountain Guides and myself.

Art Mooney

Kavu – Klear Above Visibility Unlimited!!!

Yes it was that type of day. For Jerry and I this meant revisiting a few of the local test pieces at Cathedral Ledge. We found ourselves at the Barber Wall in the early morning for a run on the steep slanting route named  Chicken Delight. This is a delight of a crack for sure as we found out in a short time!!!

Our move from here took us down to Diedre – a classic 5.9 route. Cracks, corners, chimney moves and a roof or two – this route keeps on giving right up to the last move. Jerry was on fire as he sent each pitch, by mid afternoon we were on top. Our hands and arms were feeling the punch for sure.

A bit to early to call it a day so we opted for one final pitch on They Died Laughing. We certainly laughed during this day, tons of good moves and lots of fun was had!!!


Jerry lay backing on the Chicken Delight.


A bit of scrappy 5.6 to start Diedre.


A problematic roof for many, unlocking a tricky sequence will get you across.

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Jerry completing the final roof moves onto the belay ledge.

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This is the sustained classic 5.8/9 corner. Beautiful rock, great moves, a steep pitch – this one is a gem.


Jerry pulling into the final move to the top.


Steep moves lead to a jam – then a scrappy mantle to top out.


Taped hands did the trick.


They Died Laughing – North End Cracks.

Awesome day on the granite cracks!!!

Thanks Jerry

Art Mooney

This Labor Day weekend, my wife and I were looking for a nice moderate climb away from the crowds at Rumney, Cathedral, and Whitehorse.  We decided on Endeavor, a classic 5.7+ route at White’s Ledge in Bartlett.  I had first heard of the route more than ten years ago and wanted to climb it but never made it out there.

While the beginning of the trail seemed a little perplexing, we followed our instinct and realized quickly we were on the right track.  The short hike and approach through the boulder field warmed us up this cool morning, and before we knew it, we were at the base.  No other parties had arrived yet.


The first look at White’s Ledge after exiting the boulder field.

The first few pitches went smoothly as we encountered some technical sections and beautiful exposure.  Taking our time, we chose not to link any of the pitches, though it would have been possible.  The fourth pitch (5.6) was a little “spicy,” and challenging to find gear in some places, but the half of the crack that continued on to the next pitch was superb: solid jams, good gear, and footholds outside the crack in case your feet hurt too much from being in climbing shoes all day.  We enjoyed the view from the top and set up our rappel.



At the rappel station at the top.  You can see the Saco River in background.

About ten feet from the rappel station – close enough to see your partner and communicate clearly but far enough to be truly on your own – I stepped on a large rock that shifted slightly and came loose.  I stuck my foot out to try and stop it.  Before I realized what was truly happening, I saw that the rock rested on my right foot.  I held it in place and yelled rock to the party below me.  A small stone fell toward the woman at the anchor, which was right below me.  I told her there was a huge rock still loose as I carefully bent down and steadied the rock with my hand before picking it up with my right hand.  Though I was aware at the time that I had wisely backed up my rappel with an auto block, a practice I employ regularly when rappelling without a fireman’s backup, in retrospect, I am even more thankful for taking the extra two minutes to do so.

Gripping the rock tightly to my chest, I told her we were still not entirely safe.  She informed me that there was at least another party below her at the base.  I eventually managed to finagle the rock in my backpack (my wife’s suggestion) and rappelled down with the extra weight.


I hope the photo gives a sense of the rock’s size.

We made it down safely, warning everyone we encountered about the precarious section right below the rappel and made our way back to the car and then home.  Despite the scare at the end, I would highly recommend Endeavor, a nice, long classic route with moderate climbing with a fairly short approach and less crowded than the popular crags.

I expect the views are even more spectacular once the leaves change.

Todd Goodman

MMG Guide