Monthly Archives: August 2014
The adventure begins – here is the entire Cody, Barr and Hall team on top of the summit of Welsh and Dickey.
This was a very special trip – the MMG guides enjoyed showing off the NH climbing areas to Catharine and Nicole who join Team Cody for their first rock and mountain climbing adventure.
This past week Team Cody reached yet another milestone – leading rock climbs!!!
It all took place during the end of summer climbing trip where the main goal was to have a fun time and climb rock and mountains in a variety of areas. We had six days planned so this could easily be achieved if the bodies would do the job – hold up from day after day of climbing.
The other goal planned was to learn the skills to lead rock. Learning the skills is one part then another one comes into play when the sharp end of the rope is taken on – its the focus and the change of mindset that automatically comes on board – it happens to everyone.
We all joked around when Chris tied in for the first lead – the mood immediately took on a serious note – he was Scared Straight!!! Chris did a fine job leading multiple sport routes and Steve took on the challenge too. By days end we all had racked up a few notable leads and we all had a blast of a time.
Team Cody and Barr setting up for the day.
A focused Chris getting some action clipping bolts on lead at Rumney Rocks.
The attentive belay is no easy task – nice work Adel .
Repman alive and feeling the sharp mindset change with the rope hanging below his feet. Fantastic job leading these routes.
Suns out guns out – summer returns to NH.
Cathedral was also on out hit list. It was a hot day so we opted for a fast ascent of the Funhouse and Upper Refuse.
Here I am topping out on the lookout of Cathedral Ledge.
A surprise visit from Alex yielded these great photos. Alex dropped a fixed rope and came down to see and record the action. Here is Steve mid pitch on Funhouse – a three star crack climb!!!
Chris hanging on by a thread – looking casual up high on the granite faces of Cathedral Ledge.
Scared Straight – the vision is clear – more leads and more adventure to come.
Thanks to all of you for an awesome week on the rocks in NH.
The Zieglers made the trek over from Vermont to sample the Rumney Rocks last week. Having previous experience both inside and outside, they were able to make the most of the gorgeous day.
Jackson belaying on Bolt Line
Don after the crux on Bolt Line with Kelly in the back on Beginner’s
We started at the Meadows, working on footwork as we ascended the slabs while staying cool in the shade. After warming up and talking about anchors, we headed over the to the Parking Lot wall for a few more climbs and then finishing the day back at Mom’s Pancake and the testy Lies and Propaganda.
Don at the top of Lies and Propaganda
Jackson pulling the tricky start of Lies
Kelly starting up on Glory Jean’s Devin working his way up Easily Amused
Thanks so much for a wonderful day at Rumney!
This past week my work has been with a group of 4 rock climbing instructors seeking to raise the bar for themselves and their guests. Each of these instructors put themselves and their skills on the line by guiding Alain and myself around Cathedral and Whitehorse. The end goal was certification as a Rock Instructor with the American Mountain Guides Association.
Rock Instructor Certification is designed to apply to most “cragging” style rock climbing areas in the United States. It is meant for guides or aspiring guides who work on routes that are Grade III or shorter. While these routes are multi-pitch, they are relatively straightforward and may involve complex approaches and/or descents. Time factors are important on all of these routes.
The photos below are of the instructors guiding us around last week. Great job to all of you for continuing your education and your commitment to guiding!!!
Whitehorse – a pleasurable day out on the slabs with AMGA guides.
Cathedral Ledge – fantastic steep cracks and flakes.
Diedre – one of the best corner systems around the NH area.
Rock rescue skills in action – mock drills for the instructors tool box.
Solid, efficient,movement – is number one for the climber, instructor, guide.
When choosing your guide look into the guides page. The information in bios will tell you who may be the best fit for your instruction and guiding day.
SPI guides are trained for the single pitch terrain and the RI are trained for multi pitch. Many certified SPI guides are in the process with mentorship and training for the RI. The Rock Guide is trained for the longest, complex routes.
Thanks to all of you for a great week.
It is the middle of the summer rock season and Cannon is in prime condition. Last week I had the opportunity to spend a couple of days up there. The plan is always flexible and it needs to be this way – as routes can be seeping water, other parties are there and weather can change the plan. Our plans were for the VMC but upon arrival the main wall was soaked from the previous days thunderstorms. We opted for two pitches of Union Jack, then Reppy’s to get our day started. By mid day the main wall started to dry and Tom and I were excited for the Lab Wall. We were able to fire 5 pitches. By then it was time to descend. This was the right choice as when we hit the ground the skies opened up in a deluge. Happy to be on the ground we hike out slowly. The change of plans worked out and we had a pretty good sampling of Cannons finer pitches.
Union Jack – Vertigo start.
Tom working the tight finger crack on Union Jack.
Selfie high on Lab Wall.
Tom on the steep headwall pitch of the Lab Wall.
Traverses protected by old bolts are quite exciting for both the leader and follower.
Waterfalls came down the face quickly.
Terry and I have been a bit fixed on the Rumney scene and we both needed a break from the schist. Moby is a long and fun climb and we had not been on this together in some time. Bright sunshine and a warm breeze it was a perfect day for us to be up high on Cannon. The route was completely dry even up into Kurt’s Corner. It was awesome to move fast and light - on a Monday morning.
Terry getting her day going on the lower pitches of Moby Grape.
Triangle roof pitch – jamming through the crux.
Topping out on Kurt’s corner.
Cannon – there are a few more weeks – maybe two months to get out on a dry ice free Cannon. Join me for a tour of this amazing alpine rock playground.
For outdoor families finding new adventures is a continuous project. For the Case family, rock climbing was next on the list. The team of five came to Rumney in hopes of discovering some great new adventure.
The camera’s were ready and the GoPro’s rolling, documenting the adventures for future proof.
Mom, Dad, and the three boys all got in on the action. Taking photos, climbing tall cliffs, and even learning to rappel. Not bad for a families first day climbing outside.
This face says it all. Rock climbing is a great adventure for any family.
Thank you to the Case family for a great day at Rumney Rocks!
Summertime is here and today the August visit from Mike his family was on. We all enjoyed a great day on Whitehores with Jackson – Miley the two superstars climbing exceptionally well. Mike, Amy and I looked on as both of these young climbers motored up the climbing routes.
Smearing their climbing shoes on the smooth friction, making high steps to overcome the overlaps, both Miley and Jackson reached new personal highs today. They both have been climbing for many years and it has become a natural activity. Tying into the rope, on belay from above or below, lowering from the top anchors – these two climbers are able to rise up and gain control in a calm and positive way.
Nice job to both of them – keep up the good work!!!
Miley and Jackson on side by side ropes up the friction wall.
Jackson very cool, calm and well balanced as he lowers to the ground.
Miley enjoying a bit more motion as she tries out a pendulum swing on the rope.
Big supporters of Black Diamond gear.
And also of Mooney Mountain Guides
Jackson putting some focus into proper footwork and positioning.
Two helpers teaming up as they pull the rope down.
A very awesome day with Mike, Amy, Jackson and Miley – thank you all very much.
Our crag for the day – Whitehorse with the Echo Roof area just left of center.
I must say I have an absolutely fantastic job. Yes guiding rock, ice, mountains is not for everyone. This is what I chose for a career and it is weeks like this past one that showcase how good a guides work can be.
The people – my guests – these folks are what make each day interesting, engaging, and fun. They all have a choice of who to climb with and I do feel very special that they choose to spend a day in the mountains, on a climb with me.
A huge Thank You is in order to all the guests who climb with me and the guides at Mooney Mountain Guides. I/We do appreciate your choice and climbing with each of you is a blast.
Jerry – aka the force – a driven man who loves to climb. Whether is be the rock, the ice, or big mountain faces in the Alps Jerry loves it all.
Aubrey – trains hard at home and plays hard when he gets out. A busy man running his business but still manages to find the time to get out on the cliffs to refresh the mind.
Charlie – our second season together – Charlie is on his way to becoming a major player on the stone. This week we crushed the routes at Rumney and with three upcoming sessions planned – new personal heights will be gained.
Ryan and Amy – new friends – on the Whitney Gilman.
We enjoyed a fantastic day on Cannon together. Amy was challenged but maintained her focus on the big stone. Ryan and I swapped leads and worked on transitions and systems.
Ryan on lead the final pitch of Whitney Gilman.
A special day for Ryan – Happy Birthday!!!
Thank you all for spending your time with me. This was amazing week of guide work/fun in NH.