Monthly Archives: August 2013

Sean came to Rumney for a second time. This time was a check in to see if this was a sport he wants to pursue. Wenesday was a hot steamy day so we started in the shade of the forest at the 5.8 crag. A couple of routes were climbed quickly and we decided to climb at Jimmy Cliff for the views and two routes the Nuthatch 5.7 and a quick climb of the Clippidy Do Da.  The check in for Sean included a variety of types of climbs which ranged from cracks, to a chimney, to delicate face routes and the multi pitch slab route. Our goal was becoming achieved – a well rounded day at the Rumney rocks area.

By mid day we decided to recharge so hiked out a took a short drive to the Common Cafe. A short lunch break with a well deserved ice coffee booted us up for the afternoon session at the Meadows Area.

The day was very productive and we climbed 8 pitches on a variety of cliffs. Sean was excited to get back into the sport. It’s now time to train back home in the local gym. The weekend adventures may become frequent activities refreshing the mind and body and Sean want to be ready to climb!



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Thanks sean for a fun day at Rumney Rocks. I hope we climb again soon.

Art Mooney

The transition from indoor climbing to the outdoor climbing world can be a challenge to the mind and to the body. The climbing routes are longer, the holds are permanent, and the routes are more difficult to view. Another view is you are outside on real rock, climbing, with fresh air and sunshine. There are a vast variety of climbs and areas to visit.  Going to new areas to challenging ones self to rise to new heights is in itself is an awesome experience


Charlie made the journey to Rumney Rocks yesterday. By days end he was a tired but very happy climber.

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Through out the day we climbed a variety of routes. Face and slabs opened up the morning, then by mid day we got after some of the steeper overhanging routes. Charlies day ended with a strong finish on the Arete 5.10C and the Holderness Crack 5.8.


A healthy lunch for us – hummus and pita bread.

 Eating good food and drinking plenty of water are essential to staying energized during a day at Rumney Rocks.

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Charlie climbing the technical Lies and Propaganda 5.9 and the Holderness Crack 5.8.

Thank you Charlie – it was a very fun day showing you around one of my favorite climbing areas.

Art Mooney

Many climbers go to the cliffs seeking freedom. Freedom to go where you want, when you want to. You can choose the level of challenge, style of climb, even where in the world you want to go. There is no greater freedom than leading. Leading a climb requires the climber to not only be strong physically and mentally, but it requires an intimate knowledge of the gear and rope systems used to stay safe while on the cliff.

Nick and Rodger came out with Mooney Mountain Guides on a custom learn to lead course. It is important to have all the essential rope system skills in order to lead safely, and climbing with a professional guide is a great way to learn the most up to date information. Nick and Rodger are strong climbers, spending many days in the gym honing their climbing abilities. There number one goal was to take there skills into the outdoors and climb a cliff such as Cathedral Ledge in New Hampshire.


Nick, Belaying after mock leading pitch two of Fun House, Cathedral Ledge.


Rodger Belaying top of pitch two on Upper Refuse, Cathedral Ledge NH.

Day one of the two day course was spent at Cathedral Ledge where we climbed from bottom to top discussing gear placements, belay systems, cleaning a pitch, mock leading (leading while on a top-rope), building anchors, and rappelling.

Day two was spent at Rumney. Rumney is a sport climbing area, meaning the protection for the leader is already placed in the rock. This allows for the climber to concentrate on the climbing and rope systems and not each individual gear placement. When learning to lead with a professional or highly experienced recreational climber, Rumney is an excellent venue to lead a lot in a short time. Nick and Rodger were able to lead many climbs, the goal to becoming proficient and then go out and climb at Rumney on there own.


Rodger leading, Rumney NH.


Nick leading, Rumney, NH.

Nick and Rodger are now ready to continue the learning on there own. As guides we are constantly learning and tweaking our systems to become better and more skilled climbers and guides. Maybe a custom course in “leading” is right for you.

Thank you Nick and Rodger for two awesome days on the cliff.

Alex Teixeira

MMG Guide

Camp Wildwood, a Mass Audubon camp located in Rindge, NH, came for five days of climbing this past week, sampling some classic New Hampshire climbs.  We spent three days at Rumney, learning and reinforcing technical skills and climbing technique.  The group pushed themselves hard, accumulating mileage on the rock.  At the end of the third day, we climbed Clip-A-Dee-Do-Dah, a classic two-pitch slab climb at the Jimmy Cliff, readying ourselves for longer routes in North Conway.

Spending a day at Whitehorse, the group reaped the benefits of practicing their footwork, and the next day at Cathedral, they increased the level of difficulty and each member successfully made it to the top of the cliff.  Despite climbing for five days in a row without a rest day, the group maintained a positive energy, steadily improved their skills, and enjoyed their time in the White Mountains.



Several members of the group at Upper Vadar


Emilia on Frosted Flakes


Charlie, mid-climb, taking a picture


Erik and Maddie at the belay on Sliding Board


Emilia and Lauren at the belay on Standard Route with Cathedral Ledge in the background


Sebastian on the slabs


Charlie heading to the Launch Pad


Sebastian carrying a rope…or three!


Maddie past the crux on Kiddie Crack


Emilia and Lauren on Upper Refuse


Sebastian topping out Cathedral Ledge


Rapping down Whitehorse


Thank you Charlie and Lauren for all your work and organization, helping to make the trip so successful.

Todd Goodman


The Eaglet Spire is the only free standing column of rock in New Hampshires. The location is stunning, the Spire sits high above Franconia Notch in a magnificent alpine setting.

Team Cody with Erik and I as guides had this one on our to do list of climbs for some time. With the weather in agreement we were ready. The cool night followed by a sunny warm day made the very best climbing conditions – it felt like Sendtember had begun.


 Steve aka Repman working the moves on the flaring chimney pitch.

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The team on approach to the Eaglet


Bagels and Espresso beans – fuel for the day.

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Franconia Notch – a spectacular setting.

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Steve on the summit of the Eaglet Spire then on the steep rappel.


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On the summit of the Eaglet.


Chris and Erik rigging their rappels.

For alpine rock climbing -try the Eaglet Spire!!!

While Tuesday’s rain kept us off the rock, Thursday turned out to be ideal conditions for climbing.  Tom, Virginia, William, and Malcolm made the most of their return to Rumney.  They climbed a number of different routes, even taking a couple of laps of some, and tried out the gri gri, a brake assisted belay device with which they were less familiar.  We worked some slabby routes, like Beginner’s Route and Bolt Line, and moved to steeper rock, like Hippos on Parade and Thou Shalt Not Covet.  The different techniques, and sharper rock, created various challenges throughout the day, but the group handled them well and had a lot of fun.


Virginia starting up Bolt Line


William working a more direct start of Bolt Line


Tom adjusting smoothly to the gri gri


Malcolm starting up Beginner’s Route


Tom mantling up on False Modesty


Malcolm and Virginia resting between climbs


William working the under cling partway up Hippos on Parade


Thanks so much your enthusiasm and energy!

Todd Goodman


Arriving mid-day, Aubrey came up to push himself again on Rumney’s steeper rock.  The rain had dried, the moderate temperature was perfect for climbing, and the crowds were gone.  After a good warm up at the Parking Lot Wall, we hopped on Egg McMeadows, a route that offered a variety of moves and challenges.



Warming up, walking across the ledge of Glory Jean’s.


We then headed to the Meadows to try out Rhinobucket to work on body position and footwork.  The dihedral in the middle of the route presented the perfect opportunity.


Aubrey readying himself for the technical start of Rhinobucket.


On the ledge after stemming his way up the dihedral.


No Money Down, a classic 5.10 at Rumney, was open, so we headed over to test ourselves on the steep, sharp rock, which required a range of techniques to ascend.


Keeping his arms straight, Aubrey conserves some energy on No Money Down.


Finding a good rest on the route, Aubrey chalked up and scouted the next section.


After a good pump, we finished the day on Hippos on Parade.  The technical bottom accompanied with the overhang at the top mirrored the progression of skills we worked on throughout the afternoon.

Thanks to Aubrey for a great day!

Todd Goodman


Runout sections on nice rock is the Handren Book route description for Slabs Direct 5.7  and Stop if You Dare 5.8.

We arrived at the Whitehorse Ledge parking lot just as a few large groups were headed for the slabs. Erik and I instantly new we would be guiding the lesser traveled routes on the slabs. It was time to keep a cool head and proceed with very steady and stable footwork on the above mentioned routes.


Gang of four all secure – after our wet mossy pitch out of the woods.


Whitehorse is an amazing chuck of solid rock – many of the routes have long run outs on moderate terrain. Always engaging and sometimes very exciting climbing.


Erik leading Chris and Adel up the Slabs Direct.


Steve at the belay after the crux pitch.

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Steve enjoying the stone -an amazing day out with the team.


Erik on the upper pitches of Whitehorse.

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Good times with the team, another one of many fun trips together.


El Caballaro Blanco – done to the top!!!

Thanks to Steve, Adel, Chris and Erik.

The skies cleared up and we enjoyed a magnificent day at Cathedral. Mike and I spoke a few days before and adjusted our schedules to beat the rain as we need a good day to have the entire family out on the cliffs for some rock climbing fun.

Saturday we met up early and Mike and I climbed Thin Air and the Saigon Pitches at Cathedral. First time here for Mike and he was impressed with the quality of the stone and the fine routes we were climbing. By noon we we done and we headed to Whitehorse to meet up with the family for the rest of the day.


Cathedral ledge from Whitehorse Slabs area.

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Fun times on Thin Air, the Prow area middle, and Mike topping out on Still in Saigon.


Oh yeah Cathedral is a blast.

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Mike and Amy high up on the stone!!!


Mylee and Jackson back to NH for some rock climbing – 4th year in a row.

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Family fun – On the rock with Mooney Mountain Guides.

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What an amazing day – getting together with Mike, Amy, Mylee and Jackson.

Thanks very much for climbing in NH again.

Art Mooney

 Cathedral and Whitehorse Ledges in North Conway Nh are two prize rock climbing areas in New England. For those looking for multi pitch granite cracks and granite slabs climbs these are the spots for an excellent summer rock climbing adventure.

Victoria and Barry joined me on last years summer vacation for a climb on Cannon of the Whitney Gilman Ridge. I will say we all had and excellent time meeting and climbing together. A few weeks back Victoria and I made new plans for a 2013 summer climbing trip. The number one choice was Cathedral Ledge. It has many climbing routes, loaded with steep cracks, and its on the tough side which would make it an engaging experience for all of us.

Cathedral our first choice – since it was a wet morning we chose to drive to the top and hike down to climb the Upper Refuse route. This is usually a good climb in questionable weather, it has moderate climbing, climbs in three short pitches, and the exposure and views are awesome. We topped out just after noon and ate our lunch at the car. For the afternoon I suggested we make a quick drive to the Whitehorse Slabs for another type of climbing  – friction and footwork.

By days end we had reached our fill of the stone. It was a nice blend of two of NH prize climbing areas.


Victoria warming up on Upper Refuse.


Victoria and Barry climbing together on Cathedral Ledge.

My Mammut 9.5 Infinity ropes were running smoothly today.


A fine type of Rest & Relaxation – enjoying a NH Rock Climbing Trip.


Topping out on Cathedral – my Five Ten Hueco shoes are awesome – all day comfort, good on the cracks and edges, and excellent on the friction slabs at Whitehorse.


View into North Conway from the top of Cathedral Ledge.

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Whitehorse is one big chunk of stone. The smooth slabs are a great place to quickly cover terrain. Using the legs for power but keeping a close eye of the footwork is key to keeping yourself together on the long friction pitches.

Our choice was a fantastic route called the Sliding Board. We climbing four pitches to the headwall then rappelled to the base. The day was full of excitement and adventure, we learned alot , and we refined what we knew.

Great day climbing with Victoria and Barry.

Art Mooney