Monthly Archives: June 2013

Leading the Way!!!

 Jerry called and was looking to reach into a new area. The request was traditional leading on crack climbs at Cathedral Ledge NH. We met up early on Thursday at Starbucks and made our overall plan. A detailed clinic on anchors and protection was our first objective at the north end area. Then we headed up to the Upper Refuse climb – the first pitch was soaking wet at the start so we opted for the Black Lung pitch. I started the leading part of our day here placing lots of protection for Jerry to move in and out of the rock while hanging on with one arm. Then it was time for Jerry to take the lead. The transition was seamless Jerry got out front and climbed steadily up the 2nd, 3rd and 4th pitches. Protection was very good, with slight refinements needed on the occasional piece. Its easy to be the back seat driver and critique pro – much harder to place good gear while leading. With years of experience Jerry had developed a good eye for the connection to the rock and was able to select the right piece of gear and place it solidly.

Throughout the two days we logged in many pitches. The finale was Funhouse to the top an excellent lead for Jerry.


Jerry leading P2 of Funhouse 5.7.


Cams, Stoppers,and  Tri Cams to choose from.


Surface area contact, solid rock, direction of pull.


Maybe this one will fit.


Nice time to be out in the hills.


New shoes – The FIve Ten – Hueco.

Great fit, good comfort, excellent edging and smearing.


Jerry getting into the zone – The Mental Game of leading.

Thanks Jerry.

Great new dimension for us.

Art Mooney