Monthly Archives: November 2012

It was time to get out and see for myself. Alex and I went up into Franconia Notch to have a look at Cannon and Lafayette. There was only a dusting of snow to be found and conditions on the Cannon face are very dry. The Black Dike looked doable from the road as we could see a thin vein of ice from top to bottom.

Conditions were good on the first and third pitches – the second pitch had very little ice and it was unbonded and very brittle. What made it go was good rock protection in the cracks. Care needs to be taken as there is quite a bit of loose unbonded rock on the route due to the lack on snow and ice.

Dike looking ready to go from this talus spot.

Getting prepped at the base area.

Awesome ice conditions on the first pitch.

Alex topping out on the runnel pitch.

The rock traverse into the ice – loaded 3 pieces of fixed gear plus a hanging rope.

Photos from afar were taken by Peter Doucette who was climbing Fafnir. Thanks to Peter for sending my way.

All said Alex and I had a great first day on the ice. The season has begun.

Art Mooney

 

It has been a long time since my last visit to the New River Gorge. I have been to the Red River, Foster Falls, the Tennesse Wall numerous times but the New River remained off the list for some reason. Terry and I looked into flights to Charleston West Virginia and to our surprise we found  cheap air tickets, this past week was open so we made it back to the New River.

First stop was the Waterstone Outdoor shop for the latest beta and New River Guide book. It was mid day so from there it was quick to head over to Kaymoor to sample the southern sandstone. Our first climbs were steep, pumpy, and sporty. I had forgotten that most of these sport routes were bolted in the 80′s and early 90′s when bolts were well spaced. I found the need to manage the forearm pump and also keep a cool and calm head on many of the climbs we did.

Over the course of our week we climbed at Central Endless, Summersville, Bubba City, Fern Point and the Whipporwill areas. Mid week was very quiet and on the weekend locals and mid atlantic folks were out enjoying some fine fall climbing conditions. The weather for the week was awesome sun each day with temps in the low 50′s.

Today we head back to NH. Hoping for either warm weather or for the winter to kick into gear. It is time to climb ice but I wouldn’t mind a few more sunny days on the rock.

New River local info.

Fern Point approach – down the ladder through the tunnel.

Scenic vistas from the rim.

Terry loving the soft sandstone rock.

Summersville Lake area – just great – water and the stone meet up again.

Technical face led to this fun roof with big holds.

Beautiful climbing at Bubba City area.

Bubba City again – nice lieback crack to the face above.

Another lake area – Whipporwill.

Terry on our last lead as the sun starts setting.

The New River has over a few thousand routes,  over half are traditional and then the rest are the sport routes. If you can come down be sure to bring a trad rack, some sport draws.  You will be treated to some fine sandstone rock climbing.

Art Mooney

On our recent trip to NY Gunks climbing area MMG Guide Derek took these wonderful photos from the top of the cliff. Many of the photos we take are from the ground looking up but these offer a different perspective. One where you can see how much excitement, focus and fun rock climbing can be.

Thanks to Derek for these great photos.
Art Mooney

Kalymnos!!!

Each year as the fall rock season winds down Terry and I travel to southern areas for an attempt to extend the warm weather into November and December. The winter is long enough in NH so this extension of the fall rock season is just what we need.

Kalymnos has been on the radar for quite a while and this fall was the right time for us to go. The journey is a long one – after 24 hours of planes, ferries, and taxis we landed in a small hotel in the seaside port of Masuri on the Greek Island of Kalymnos.

Let the climbing begin. The access is quite easy – a short walk led us to the main areas around the Grand Grotto and the second more fun option was the Scooter rental for the cliffs scattered around the island.

We climbed for 11 days at a variety of areas and never repeated a route. This two week trip was a good amount of time but the next time we go back we will try for three weeks. The limestone rock was sharp on the slab routes and very soft on the steep tufa type routes. All the routes were well maintained with solid bolts and quick clip anchors.

Enjoy the photos of our trip!!!

Grand Grotto

Terry on lead at the Ghost Kitchen area.

Route info along the base.

Well supplied with Mammut ropes and equipment  and Five Ten shoes.

Fun traveling on the Scooters.

Climbers Nest a local hangout.

Greek food – fresh and delicious.

The team.

Each night we were treated to a beautiful sunset over the Island of Teledonus.

Absolutley amazing!!!

Art Mooney