Monthly Archives: September 2012

Wow today was a brisk, windy day on Cannon. Hats, gloves and all the clothing layers we had were used to keep us warm. Reppys Crack was a tough 1st pitch – numb hands and the painful foot jams were exasperated in the 45 degree temps. Kate and I recovered at the belay and push on for the top. We climbed and kept our focus as Moby is a sustained 5.8 route with multiple cruxes throughout the 9 or so pitches. The winds subsided for a few hours helping us out but as we topped out at 2:45 the breeze picked up again. Today was not a day to lounge around on the rock it was a day to move efficiently and get the climbing done. Kate and I kept in cruise mode all the way from the bottom to the parking lot.

It was a truly awesome day on the big cliff.

Thanks to Kate – she has been climbing and training for 4 months – great to see her on Moby Grape and enjoying this alpine day in the White Mountains.

Art Mooney

Dan and I met in Franconia Notch for a climbing day on the Whitney Gilman Ridge on Cannon Cliff.
We were pretty happy to find one car in the parking lot on Labor Day weekend.  In fact, we were 2 of 6 climbers on Cannon the entire day!
We sorted gear, checked our packs and headed for the long talus approach to the base of the route.
The route is truly a gem of the northeast.  With 600 to 700 feet of moderate alpine granite cracks, face, and slab climbing and incredible views and exposure over the Franconia Parkway.
Dan and I climbed the route in 5 pitches, enjoying the handcrack variation on pitch 3 of the route.  The handcrack pitch has to be one of the most exciting pitches of the grade on the east coast.  The climber must finish the pitch on overhanging rock with the chasm of the Black Dike several hundred feet below.  Dan said the pitch trumps the classic High Exposure route in the Shawangunks.
By the end of the 3rd pitch, the wind was picking up, dark gray clouds rolled in across the top of Cannon Mountain and we decided it was best to keep hustling for the summit.  With two pitches to go we felt the sprinkle of rain but heard no thunder.
We climbed carefully, transitioned quickly, and reached the summit just in time for the afternoon showers.
We high-fived on the summit, celebrating our adventure and good fortune in dodging the inclement weather.

Whitney Gilman Ridge NH.

Dan enjoying his first Cannon experience.

Looking down the steep 5.8 variation.

MMG Guide Stephen on Cannon.

Wild exposure on the top pitch of the route.

Thank you Dan for a really great adventure .

Stephen Cooney

MMG Guide