Monthly Archives: January 2012

Its not offer I can share my passion with good friends and local climbers. Today Rachael, David and I went out to raise the bar and gain confidence on the ice. These two folks are high level rock climbers that are venturing into this wonderful ice arena. They decided a clinic on leading and movements was in order. We warmed up on a few pillars then David took on the sharp end and led two routes. Solid and steady was the theme for David. In the afternoon we checked out the Luck of the Irish. I think its Kinsman’s best climb. The climb is in beautiful condition, with steep pumpy moves for 60 feet or so. It was awesome we all sent in very good style.  Enjoy the photos of Rachael and David at Kinsman Notch.

David warming up on a steep pillar of ice.

Rachael finding good placements and remember good footwork is key.

David on lead setting a nice line of ice screws for protection.

Here we are working on setting anchors, rope management during  a multi pitch transition.

A visitor came by to view us on the ice.

David on the Luck of the Irish.

It was a very fun day with good friends.

Thanks to Rachael & David.

Art Mooney

It’s not often we get a day this clear and calm on Mt. Washington. More often sporting “the world’s worst weather,” it is very refreshing to be able to look around and see the surrounding peaks, ridges, and valleys. Not only was the weather perfect, the trail conditions were also stellar. Sara, Conor, and myself were able to make great time. Leaving the trail head at 7am, it was cold and still. The temperatures rose quickly and hiked to Gem Pool with few stops. We put our crampons on and headed up the steep Ammonusuc Trail, this is one of the steepest sections of trail in the White Mountains. But the trail was packed and held our crampons well. We were at Lakes of the Clouds before we knew it in perfect warm sunshine. As we approached the summit cone we encountered some hard snow and also some soft snow that we sunk into a little bit, this slowed us down at times but we were still moving steadily. We summitted at 12:30 in calm winds. We could see Lake Winnepesake, and into Vermont. On the way down the snow that made uphill travel tough, made downhill travel a pleasure as we plunge stepped down the hill.    We returned to the trail head at 3pm and went to the Woodstock Station to eat, drink, and be merry. The Patriots we on the big screen earning their way to the Superbowl as we chatted about the day and made plans for the future.

Thanks to Sara and Conor for an awesome day on the mountain!

Matt Ritter MMG Guide

Yes its true the ice has taken shape at Rumney Rocks NH. This south facing crag needs colder temperatures to come into shape and this last arctic blast did the trick. Matt and I spent the last two days climbing the classic steep ice lines. We found good conditions on all routes. These cold nights should keep the routes in shape and even fatten them up a bit. Enjoy the photos of MMG Guide Matt Ritter on the sharp end at Rumney NH.

Matt up high on the Geographic Factor NEI 5.  Great climbing with a short overhanging feel at the crux.

Matt on the steep Barbados at the Meadows area.

Looks like floating on the ice.

Another one of the steep pillars at Rumney.

Its great to be out at the home crag again and now its looking good for the next few weeks.

Enjoy the ice while its here.

Art Mooney

This winter has been on the warmer side but I have no complaints. Today the conditions on Cannon were mighty fine. The Black Dike is full of ice from the bottom to top. The temps were in the mid twenties, a light breeze, and the ice was plentiful but getting on the drier side. This next weather maker should put some moisture down to replenish the ice flows.  Screws were placed the entire way with only two pieces of rock gear one fixed and another small cam on the middle pitch. Last year at this time the route was bone dry and stayed that way to mid February. Some are saying this is a unique winter, if so I’ll take these good conditions on Cannon over last years.

Red sky in morning – let the snow begin.

Numerous ice screw holes around the second anchor, counted thirteen holes to be exact.

 The approach is rough, light snow cover, loose talus and scree.

Jerry enjoying the entire route.  This was the second time this season for us and it keeps getting better.

Art Mooney

Jerry and I climbed Gully Number 1 today then headed up to the top by climbing a second route called Cauliflower Gully. Boy what a great position to be in – topping out on an ice runnel high on Mt Willard. The views and climbing were spectacular.

Jerry dialing in the moves on Gully number 1.

The view from Cauliflower Gully.

Jerry midway on Cauliflower Gully. Today we had an excellent alpine outing in Crawford Notch.

Art Mooney

Eric on Pitch 2 of Fafnir – Sunday Jan 8th.

The Third Pitch – Mixed Medium.

The Mixed Master Matt in Action.

Fafnir from the top!

Nice job to MMG guides Matt and Eric.

This past Thursday RJ, Matt and I went up to Cannon to climb on Hassigs or Fafnir. The day was calm and quite warm it was a perfect time to check out one of the more difficult lines. We arrived at the base of the cliff and Hassigs looked to be in shape. There would be a section of mixed climbing then the pitch ended with a very steep headwall of ice. Matt was excited to get on this pitch. RJ took the first lead up to the belay on the right side. Matt took over and with a solid head worked his way up the crux pitch. Matt never missed a step, his climbing was solid, secure and protection was good. Matt sent the pitch and RJ and I enjoyed a fun ride on top rope.

RJ on the approach.

Matt warming up for his pitch – Hassigs.

RJ leading up to the first belay spot, the first pitch was in very good condition with lots of ice.

Matt looking solid on the test piece pitch – Hassigs.

Great day out with the guides.

Art Mooney